To get an understanding of why the Antinori family’s approach to winemaking scandalised Tuscany our Wine Writer Laurence Civil recently had dinner at Ristorante Zannoti with Jacopo Pandolfni. Jacopo has just taken over from Alessia Antinori the role of their Export Area Manager Asia and Australia

The Antinori family can be described as the wine radicals who are driven by making the best wine they can even if it does ruf­fle a few feathers. Their story started over 100 years ago when Piero bought several vineyards in the Chianti Classico region, including 47 hectares at Tignanello.

Nonconventional wine makers, it was son Niccolo who back in 1924 dared to use Bordeaux grape varities to make his Chianti, sending a shock wave through Tuscany. He was more passionate about making the best wine and wasn’t go­ing to be bound by tradition. He continued to experiment
over the following years, with new blends, types of barrel, temperature control and bottle ageing.

When Niccolo retired in 1966, his son Piero replaced him. Piero was even more innovative. He investigated early harvesting of white grapes, differ­ent types of barrique, stainless steel vats and malolactic fermentation of red wines.

The real Tuscan revolution was in 1971 with the launch of Tignanello, a bar­rique-aged wine from the eponymous vineyard that contained Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which meant that it was ineligible for the Chianti Classico appellation. Even worse, from 1975 the blend contained no white grapes.

Technically Tignanello was not the first ‘Super Tus­can’ -that honour goes to Sassicaia, created by a relative of the Antinoris, the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, but lets not forget the Antinoris had been experimenting with Cabernet blends since the 1920s. But it was Tignanello that really shook up the Italian wine industry, leading to far-reaching changes in rules and attitudes. However, even though the Chianti Classico DOCG rules have now been changed to accommodate wines such as Tignanello, the Antinoris continue to sell it as a To­scana IGT wine.

Emboldened by the success of the 20% Bordeaux blend Tignanello, in 1978 Antinori launched the 80% Cabernet Solaia, from the neighbouring vine­yard. Winemakers who break rules to make better wines rather than comply with tradition and be forced to make an inferior wine.

The first wine we tasted was Conte delle Vipera 2005 from Umbria made primarily of the best Sauvignon Blanc grapes from Castello della Sala vineyard planted at between 650 and 1,300 feet above sea-level. To which just a touch of Chardonnay from the same vineyard, the wine from both grapes was made with alcoholic fermentation, avoiding malolactic fermentation. Their marriage produces intensely fruity aromas. In the mouth the taste is well-struc­tured and velvety with a finish that strongly reflects its aromas.

We then moved onto Bramito del Cervo 2006 made from the same vineyard but at a lower altitude of 200-400 metres above sea level. Grapes from this altitude produce a wine that in the glass is straw-yellow with golden hues. On the nose there are the distinctive fruity varietals; aromas with nice hints of vanilla and toast. In the mouth the taste has excel­lent structure, mineralogy and style.

Next to be poured was the original rebel wine Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 that dared to add 10% Cabernet Sauvignon to the 90% of Sangiovese Chianti grape. This wine is made exclusively from estate grown fruit from Santa Cris­tina, Pèppoli and Badia a Passignano estates in the Mercatale Val di Pesa zone in Chianti Classico. In the glass I discovered an intense ruby red colour. On the nose there were spicy hints of cinnamon and cloves, alongside oakey and piquant peppery aromas. In the mouth the taste is rounded, creamy, sweet and well-balanced. The aftertaste mainly expresses aromas linked to the ageing period – in­cense, balsamic hints and more spice.

Then he poured Barbaresco Prunotto 2004, a Barar­esco DOCG made with 100% Nebbiola grapes from vineyards in the areas of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive. In the glass the wine has a garnet colour with good intensity. On the nose the aromas are deep and complex with hints of liquorice. Then in the mouth the taste is full and velvety with a long finish. Due to its structure this is a wine best served slightly warm­er than other reds at 17ºC to allow the character to fully open.

Moving onto a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Pian delle Vigne 2001made with 100% Sangiovese grapes from the Pian delle Vigne estate is located six km south of Montalcino, above the Val d’Orcia. In Mon­talcino the Sangiovese grape is known as Brunello, hence the name. In the glass there is a ruby red to garnet colour. On the nose aromas are aromatic and complex, with hints of spices, cherries, blackber­ries, light tobacco and pleasant chocolate under­tones. There is a very full-bodied and broad taste in the mouth with an intense sweetness, decisive but smooth, elegant tannins and a long, persistent fin­ish.

Next, Guado al Tasso 2003, (the name means Badger’s Ford taking its name from a common sight around the vineyard ) estate-grown single-vineyard Bolgheri DOC Superiore. The wine is a blend of 60% Caber-net Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Syrah, all non-na­tive Italian grapes but grown because they make a great wine. There is an extraordinary, intense ruby red in colour in the glass. On the nose the aromas are fruity, more of cherry than cassis, with hints of toast, coffee and dark chocolate. In the mouth the taste is finely structured and complex; balanced, with soft tannins and a lingering finish.

Finally, with dessert we enjoyed Moscato D’asti 2007 DOCG made with 100 % White Canelli Moscato grapes from selected vineyards in the Canelli and Treiso area. In the glass there is an intense pale yel­low in colour. On the nose we discover typical Mo­scato characteristics with hints of acacia honey and hawthorn. On the palate the taste is full, dense, vig­orous and elegant with a pleasant, harmonious and fresh finish.

Antinori is imported by
Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd, 41 Anuwong Road, Bangkok 10100.
Tel 0-2224-8045, Fax 0-2224-8042, E-mail vanich@vanichwathana.com