Kayti Denham takes flight over the majestic Burmese temples of Bagan

The magic of Bagan is so present, so tangible you could be forgiven thinking that in order to reach such a mystical destination a ride on a broomstick, a passage through a secret door or a step into the back of a wardrobe is required. Yet Bagan is both far more and far less accessible than any fictional land of equally immeasurable beauty. Located in the central west plains of  Burma it can be reached with a good sense of adventure and, like any mythic destination a willingness to ‘believe’.

Arriving by boat from Mandalay provides a gentle entry; hours spent on the broad reaches of the Irrawaddy lull the senses and can empty the mind for what lies ahead, although conveniently there is also air travel. Flights that leave Mandalay, Yangon and Heho arrive daily making it a brisk 45-minute journey from normality into the surreal.

The forty-two kilometer square area of the Bagan Plain is scattered with 3,000 temples – some with spires of gold, reaching heavenward. And although it inspires echoes of the poetry of Coleridge – “In Xanadu did Kublai Khan” – it was the Mongols of Kublai Khan who over ran the place in 1287, some two hundred years after its inception at the close of the rule of Thaton.

After centuries of neglect, and a creepy reputation as a place of ghosts and bandits, the British occupation of the area, that they called Pagan, opened it again as a place for the living rather than the dead.

Today the plains of Bagan are tranquil. Seen at dawn, dusk, high noon or midnight under a full moon they are a wonder to behold. They challenge for sheer beauty the Pyramids of Gaza, their whispering homage to spirituality a far cry from the clamor of Vatican City. They rival Angkor and in majesty are only surpassed by the natural highs of Himalayan peaks and the deep river gorges of Africa. The experience of Bagan is nothing short of intoxicating.

It is easy to spend days amongst the temples, the stupors and the spires, emerging only when hunger and sleep demands. On bicycle, on foot, by horse and cart the ways around the plain are open, easy and seemingly endless.

Intricate architecture, crumbling ruins, plain brick constructions and frosted white pagodas literally litter the paths. Entry to the temples is possible; climbing them is possible, even picnicking is possible in this garden of devotion.

Nooks and crannies are there to be discovered in the thousands of abandoned temples, and at the larger ones, like the Ananda Phato you can immerse yourself in one of the many temple festivals that takes place during the year. These gatherings involve people coming into Old Bagan from the surrounding areas to participate in colorful celebrations, markets and rituals, not unlike those of the camel fairs in India.

Adding a further sense of surreal to a Bagan visit has to be taking in the temples at dawn on a Balloons Over Bagan adventure. There was nothing that could have prepared us for this experience, apart from, maybe, some words from an opium influenced poet who could have explained to us that flying in balloons, rather than something to be feared, is to realize the true sense of flying.

With no resistance in the mind or body the imagination is set free upon the gentle winds that carry the balloons over the waking earth. Mists lift to reveal sights you feel are being seen for the very first time. At once explorer and adventurer, intrepid and brave you set sail under a billowing cloud of air to bear witness to the work of the ancestors, and as the sun crests over the curve of the earth the revelations that flood the mind are at once thrilling and sobering.

Around the temple plains the small towns of New and Old Bagan and Nyaung U are delightful, the cafes serve wonderful Bermese tea, make amazing guacamole and serve fresh food in many styles. The Moon in Old Bagan is friendly to animals as well as people and serves a full vegetarian menu. It’s hard to beat a chilled Mandalay Beer in The Sunset Garden, New Bagan as the setting sun shoots flames of gold from the nearby spires across the surface of the Irrawaddy, and for the evening’s entertainment The Typical Food House in New Bagan cannot be missed. The traditional performances from one of Burma’s most revered Nat dancers are as magical and strange as the surrounding plains.

Bagan provides an unforgettable destination for adventure during the months of October to March before the searing heat and the monsoons rains, it can be cool during December with night time temperatures around 10C.

As with most destinations in Burma it is not overly touristy, and although there are some very upmarket  ‘resorts’ along the river at Old Bagan, much of the accommodation is in friendly family style guest houses and locally run small hotels.

SPOTLIGHT ON BURMA

STATISTICS

Capital: Rangoon

Population: Around 50 million

Languages: There are 111 languages spoken. 80% of the populations speak in the country’s official language – Burmese.

Time: GMT + 6:30

Tourist visa: A valid Passport with Entry Visa is required of all visitors. A Tourist Visa allows a stay of 28 days, extendible for an additional 14 days.

Money: Kyat (MMK; symbol K) = 100 pyas. Notes are in denominations of K1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Kyat is pronounced like the English word ‘chat’. To combat the black market and limit the financial power of dissident groups, currency denominations are occasionally declared invalid without prior notice. Limited refunds are usually allowed for certain sectors of the population.

Credit/Debit Cards and ATMs

It is unlikely that credit or debit cards will be accepted; it is best to check with your card company prior to travel. There are no ATMs.

Traveler’s Cheques

Not currently accepted, although this may change. Check with your tour agency prior to travel, and bring plenty of US Dollars in cash.

Banking Hours

Mon-Fri 1000-1400.

Exchange Rate Indicators

Date	Feb 10
£1.00 =	K10.07
$1.00 =	K6.41
€1.00=	K8.78

WHEN TO GO:

The best time to visit Myanmar is from November to February. This is the time when both the rains and the heat are at their lowest, making it pleasant to explore the country with ease. March to May bring intense heat while June hails in the rainy season.

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Dangers & annoyances

Considering all the bad news that trickles out of Myanmar, it may sound like a rather unsafe country to visit. For the vast majority of visitors, the truth is quite the opposite.

Creepy crawlies

Mosquitoes, if allowed, can have a field day with you. Bring repellent from home, as the good stuff (other than mosquito coils) is hard to come by here. Also, some guesthouses and hotels don’t have mosquito nets.

Myanmar has one of the highest incidences of death from snakebite in the world. Watch your step in brush, forest and grasses.

Crime

Most travelers’ memories of locals grabbing their money are of someone chasing them down to return a K500 note they dropped. If someone grabs your bag at a bus station, it’s almost certainly just a trishaw driver hoping for a fare.

There are, however, occasional reports of street crime, particularly in Yangon, which include burglaries of some expats’ homes.

SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO?

You have to decide. We all know the military junta of Burma are a bunch of assholes so if you do decide to go make sure your money goes into the hands of the locals. Stay at independently run guest houses and hotels. Eat at local restaurants and at all times try to avoid trips and tours that might benefit the regime. Burma is an impoverished country. Your money can help a few of the people.

Contacts:

Balloons Over Bagan

balloons@myanmar.com.mm

www.balloonsoverbagan.com

Typical Food House

Pagoda View, New Bagan

06165348

The Moon

North of Ananda Temple

Old Bagan