Tara Mitchell gets spirited away on Latino cocktails and salsa dips in one
of Bangkok’s best kept secrets

La Cuchara is a cosy Latino retreat in the heart of Bangkok. Hidden down an unassuming side­soi near Sathorn Soi One, where cats and children frolic and laundry hangs out to dry, La Cuchara is a just-the-two-of-us kind of place, a romantic Co­lumbian restaurant ideal for those with a hankering for homemade salsa, rich paprika stews, lime-laced cocktails and a Latin American ambiance.

Opened six months ago, La Cuchara -which means “spoon” -is the brainchild of Nittaya Nakham, a Thai woman who learned the art of Columbian cuisine from a former boyfriend. His mother still visits the restaurant to check out what’s going on in the kitchen and give inspiration and advice for new dishes.

“I want to keep it simple,” says Nittaya, explaining her food philosophy. “It’s home-style cooking with something different every day in an easy and friendly environ­ment.”

La Cuchara is certainly easy on the eye. The small outdoor terrace is a verdant oasis of pot­ted plants and flowering trees, making you feel far removed from the chaos of Bangkok. The red light overhead creates a pleasing sensation of be­ing somewhere secret. Inside, the extraordinary attention to detail gives the restaurant a fiesta feel, as though you’ve been magically transported down a backstreet of Bogota and at any moment Shakira is going to sashay down the staircase, belting out These hips don’t lie.

The blue walls, a colour chosen for its popular­ity in Columbia, are decorated with Columbian masks, brightly coloured fabric flowers and hang­ing plants. Rather than images of Buddha, La Cuchara features Catholic paraphernalia – Moth­er Mary, Jesus Christ, saints and crucifixes. Rich red silk curtains frame the doorway. Plants and coloured water glasses liven up the blue tables, and a pathway of candles light up the staircase, leading the way to a bar which will open in a few months time. The large mirror with a Latino-style tiled border and ceiling lamps flashing prisms of coloured light complete the South American feel. The only thing missing is a piñata.

You might feel far removed from anything Thai, but Nittaya doesn’t see it that way. “Columbian and Thai cuisine have a lot in common,” she says. “They use the same basic ingredients – lime, cori­ander leaves and chilli. Even the cooking style of Thai curries and Columbian stews is similar.”

Nittaya has a set-menu written on a chalk board hanging on the blue wall. She likes to experiment and changes what’s on offer regularly. Lunch is served daily from 12:30 to 14:30 and the kitchen opens again for dinner and late night cocktails. The portions are generous and the prices very reasonable, ranging from 200 baht for La Cucha­ra Pork with Paprika Stew to 240 baht for Grilled Beef with Sautéed Shallots.

We start with Ceviche de Camaron, a delicious spicy prawn and tomato salad generously sea­soned with fresh coriander leaves, and served in a banana leaf fashioned into the shape of a square bowl. For the entree, we have La Cuchara Chicken, with tender chicken falling off the bone and drenched in a tomato, coriander and shallot stew. Our second dish, La Cuchara Pork, fea­tures equally tender pork medallions in a paprika stew with spiced potatoes. In keeping with the Columbian-style of eating, every meal is served with rice, avocado, homemade salsa and thick deep fried wedges of cassava.

La Cuchara isn’t merely a place to soak up a Lat­ino atmosphere and eat great food, it also spe­cialises in exotic drinks. A central feature of the restaurant is the well-stocked red bar, with blue stools perfect for bar hanging.

“I love to serve cocktails,” says Nittaya, with a glint in her eye that serves as a warning.

La Cuchara likes to call their cocktails “toxic,” but what they really mean is dangerously easy to drink. The extensive cocktail list has over 50 combinations, but their specialty is Latin-inspired drinks. In addition to the old Latino favourites, such as Mojitos, Cuba Libra, Margaritas and Caipirinhas (which they give a new twist by flavouring with strawberries or guava), they also serve the El Macua from Co­lumbia and the Pisco Sour, a Peruvian drink made with egg whites and aromatic bitters. Seductively refreshing, the El Macua and the Pisco Sour both easily qualify as “toxic.”

A trip down Latino lane wouldn’t be complete without music. The extensive CD collection includes soulful sounds from Puerto Rico, Cuba, Brazil and, of course, Columbia. So if you’ve had your fair share of green curry, Singapore Slings Land Thai pop music, head to La Cuchara for salsa, a Pisco Sour and some Latin Jazz.  You might just discover the South American spirit inside you.

La Cuchara is located:
2/38 Soi Sribumphen (Sathorn Soi 1), Rama 4 Road,
Thungmahamek, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02-679-9910
Web: www.lacucharabangkok.com