Monsieur Laurence Civil enjoys a tipple of Bordeaux

Back in the 90’s there was a decline in  domestic  consumption  of  wine in France, the result a dependency on an overseas market. But this new customer base didn’t have  the same complex understanding  of  wine  and  needed things made simpler for them which is understandable.

Bordeaux, with 618,000 acres of cultivated vines, 15,000 properties and 57 appellations all making great wines can at times confuse the experts. The challenge they faced was how with such complexities their wines can be more easily understood by overseas costumer.

One initiative was for five appellations with much in common to get to­gether with the idea of forming a common Côtes de Bordeaux. They were Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Franc and Premiere Côtes de Bordeaux. The idea behind the move was to promote the new title and to be more precise with regards to origin such as ‘Castil­lon: Côtes de Bordeaux Controlée’, making it easier to understand.

“Our aim is to simplify things for the consumer,” says Christophe Cha­teaux, director of The Union Cotes de Bordeaux, “These regions have a lot in common, all are located on the Right Bank and are largely Merlot­based. They are largely approachable, fruit-driven wines. Most are fam­ily owned and managed properties of 35-40acres. With better consumer recognition, they have great potential on the export market.’

As with any attempt to get a group of passionate wine makers to agree there will always be some who have a different opinion. When the time came Cotes de Bourg withdrew from the new appellation. ‘There’s no guarantee that the new AOC will be successful,” said a spokesman, “we want to keep the choice over our identity. If it works, then we will be happy to join.”

From the 2007 vintage, Bordeaux will have just 54 appellations instead of the current 57 with the inauguration of the new appellation Côtes de Bordeaux.

The Union des Côtes de Bordeaux officially inaugurated the new associa­tion on 3 July. The appellations of Graves de Vayres and Bodeaux St Foy have also applied to join, and will be included in promotional activities.

To have wines appreciated overseas it’s important to have chefs cooking dishes that match their style. For the past few years the appellation has invit­ed young American chef ’s to come to Bordeaux during the harvest not only to appreciate the wines but also to discover the wonderful local produce. As a result wines from Cotes de Bordeaux can be seen on the wine list of New York’s Bernardin and Santa Ana’s Ambrosia.

Back in Bordeaux La Tupina is the restaurant most devoted to regional cui­sine. If you can have only one meal in Bordeaux, eat it here. Owner Jean-Pierre Xiradakis grills and roasts magnificent chickens and ribs of beef over an open hearth. His foie gras, adorned only with gros sel (large grains of salt), and his potatoes fried in goose fat remind you that you’re in the south­west of France. Jean-Pierre sees a commonality between his tasty authentic food and the delicious straight forward wines from the Cotes de Bordeaux. “Some of these wines rival some grand cru classe in terms of quality but without the prohibitive price,” says Jean-Pierre. “This is important so that you can relax and enjoy the wines. With such an expensive and rare vintage I often tremble, afraid that I might spill a drop.”