Traditionally, some of us like to go where the snow is, where it’s bloody freezing and where Santa has no troubles wearing ultra-thick clothes. Others choose to follow the sun, to seek out places where kids can play on white sand beaches and swim in the warm sea. Places where adults can go shopping dressed in Hawaiian shirts and straw hats without being laughed at by their mates.

Thailand is one of these places.

Unwind and enjoy the festive break on one of Thailand’s numerous beaches and islands. The following are a few recommendations from us.

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The Understated: Cha Um

Cha-am is a little like Vientiane, upon first arriving you wonder what the draw is and why people stay there…then the enchantment sets in. The natural beauty of this small traditional Thai town on the beach combines with the warmth of its people to create a world of carefree relaxation. Experience all Cha-Am has to offer in a chic yet understated style at the best little guest house in town, Cha-Am Inn@Cha-Am.

Stay: Putting the boot in Boutique, Cha-am Inn offers the best value for money, with bamboo mats over polished cement floors, tasteful bathrooms with either balcony or window seating, its rooms are modern and minimalist with just the right touch of elegance (ca. 1200 THB/night) http://www.cha-inn.com, Tel: +66 (0)3247 1879

Do: Wake up looking over the beachfront promenade, hire a bike and cycle to the fisherman’s village, buy the fresh catch of the day and bring it back for the Cha-Am Inn guest house kitchen to cook-up, offering a festive feast on the beach.

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The Family Celebration: Hua Hin

For those needing action, care and attention from the moment they wake up until the moment the head hits the pillow – and we are referring to all ages from 6 months to 86 years – Baan Laksasubha is the family resort to check-in. We can even let the grown ups into a secret – children will find Santa here on vacation too! Seriously….he will be on the beach reading Christmas stories to the children, handing out gifts and may even join you for the Christmas lunch and carol singing. Rumour has it he can’t get enough of the place!

Stay: Enjoy a truly unique family Christmas celebration in the beautiful resort of Baan Laksasubha and with their Costenara restaurant being the only direct beachfront dining space in Hua Hin, an alfresco Christmas Eve or fun filled Christmas Day on the beach doesn’t get much better than this.

Do: In the true spirit of fun and festive giving, there will be games on the beach, entry is at a small donation request from participants with proceeds going towards building a library for the Hueng Pueng School, which is located on the remote hills of Hua Hin. Last year, Baan Laksasubha already started funding the building with a contribution from the United Nations Women’s Club.

www.baanlaksasubha.com

53/7 Naresdamri Rd., Hua Hin, Prachuab Khirikhan 77110. T +66 2261 5551  F +66 2258 7347

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The Escape Artist: Koh Jam

A hidden jewel nestled off the coast from Krabi, Koh Jam (often spelt Koh Jum for confusion and to keep the masses at bay) is the ultimate island holiday experience for the escape artist looking to get away from it all.

Stay in comfort in one of the guesthouses offering bungalows on the beach and wake to the soothing rhythms of waves lapping the shore. Ho-ho–ho only crosses your mind when you think of the madness in the shopping malls that you have escaped. It’s just you, the beach, and a few other like-minded travelers in the know, relaxing in this bliss of exquisite oasis amongst lush forests, long secluded beaches and a never-ending ocean.

It isn’t that Christmas is cancelled here, there is bound to be a smattering of tinsel somewhere, but the island makes wishes come true from October until April every year. Be sure to tick off the days to departure on the calendar, it’s the kind of place you can just lose yourself in and forget to leave at all!

Stay: Koh Jum Lodge www.kohjumlodge.com for an ecolodge with style amongst the horticulture of tropical grounds and white sand on the doorstep. For the minimalist, Siboya Bungalows has a bed with your name on it – www.siboyabungalows.com – and you will find they have a verdandah and a hammock waiting too.

Getting there: Boats between Krabi and Ko Lanta drop travelers off at Ko Jam for 450 THB. The island can also be accessed by boat from Ban Laem Kruat, a village just 30km from Krabi for just 100 THB.

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The Thrill Seeker: Phuket

Fire your imagination and revive your spirit with all the fascinating wonders around Phuket. Travel in comfort on a luxury yacht to the islands; explore an abundance of stunning islands, including the Racha and Coral islands; snorkel or dive and be surrounded by schools of tropical marine fish and fauna or simply lay back and cruise the seascape of the Phang Nga Bay. At the close of a full day, return to a 5 star resort and spa such as Anantara Phuket.

The Minor Affair, a Sunseeker Manhattan 60 packed with charm and sophistication, offers intimate cruising options for up to eight guests seeking island hopping and overnight adventures. Discover a breathtaking diversity of exotic beaches and pristine waters in the beautiful Andaman Sea from the privacy of a luxury yacht. Rates for a full day charter including lunch are 205,000 THB plus tax and service charge.

Stay: Anantara Phuket Resort & Spa is an ideal setting for a Christmas story you’ll tell forever. Located on the island’s secluded northern sunset coast, a collection of 83 expansive villas all benefit from a private pool, outdoor terrazzo tub and an array of luxurious facilities.

Do: Add to the adventure by chartering the yacht for an extended cruise from 2 days to the Similan Islands where whale sharks have been spotted, up to 8 days to Mergui Archipelago in Burma.

http://phuket.anantara.com

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The Upgraded Backpacker: Koh Samui

Don’t you just love it when the upgrade comes naturally? Once the backpackers pilgrimage, Koh Samui island has undergone some serious nip and tuck treatment to welcome back yesterday’s backpacker returning with family and friends in tow.

The extraordinary landscape encompasses mountains, verdant valleys and the beautiful waters and beaches around the coastline, accessible from the 100km ring road around the island. From the picturesque fishing village in Bo Phut to the waterfall at Nam Tok na Muang, this remarkable island will enchant and amaze.

Stay: Bandara Resort and Spa, in pure Asian style where imaginative design has combined with nature for a sanctuary of solace. Take a day trip to see some of the local sites of Bophut Beach, visit Big Buddha, local markets, shopping areas and the bustle of Chaweng. Return for a sumptuous seafood dinner at the beach side restaurant to the backdrop of gentle lapping waves on the beach and a thousand stars above.

www.bandarasamui.com/
178/2 Moo 1, Tambol Bophut, Koh Samui,

Surat Thani 84320 THAILAND

Tel: +66 (0)7724 5795

Fax: +66 (0)7742 7340

samuisales@bandarasamui.com

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Hideaway for Couples: Yao Noi

If you always thought Christmas was meant to be spent in a private infinity-edged pool villa, in a Hilltop Reserve, with a private sundeck and comes with a personal villa team who is trained to anticipate every whim, then surrender yourself to complete tranquility in this idyllic haven called Six Senses Yao Noi. Its where soft, white sand meets sparkling azure ocean in the perfect location for you to rest and rejuvenate your mind, body and spirit.

This exclusive space is guaranteed to satisfy your every desire with private villas, seductive spa treatments and extensive health facilities.
You will leave wondering if Christmas was ever spent any other way.

Stay: Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi is located on the island of Yao Noi, situated midway between Phuket and Krabi, among the awe-inspiring limestone pinnacles of Phang Nga. The resort can be accessed from both Phuket airport and Krabi airport. A quick drive and boat ride will bring you to the resort, or to arrive in style, try the helicopter option!

http://www.sixsenses.com

Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi

56 Moo 5, Tambol Koh Yao Noi, Amphur Koh Yao, Phang-Nga 82160, Thailand

Tel: +66 (0) 76 418 500, Fax: +66 (0) 76 418 518

E-mail : reservations-yaonoi@sixsenses.com

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Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Thailand’s Coastal Christmas

A three-hour drive north from Kuala Lumpur and high in the Cameron High­
lands awaits a haven of tranquility and a magnificent landscape. Once a retreat for the Europeans to escape the oppressive heat of the lowlands and now attracting nationalities from across the globe, it still has all the charm and setting reminiscent of an English village.

Cameron Highlands was named after William Cameron, a British surveyor who stumbled across the plateau in 1885 during a mapping expedition. Failing to mark his discovery on the map, the location of the plateau was fi­
nally confirmed by subsequent expeditions. Having been there myself, I can understand why William wanted to keep this wonderful place a secret!
Due to the acidic and rich mineral content of the soil, the region is abundant with tea plantations and strawberry fields. Cameron Highlands is also a leading producer of flowers in Malaysia; be prepared for a brilliant explosion of flowers you won’t see flourishing elsewhere else in Malay­sia! Drive up as high as 1,500 meters above sea level to the peaks of the main range of Peninsular Malaysia and enjoy temperatures as low as 18°C.

Flushed and ready to brew
Nicknamed ‘Malaysia’s Green Bowl’, the Highlands possess all the right attributes of prime cropland – moderate tem­peratures, high altitude, abundant rainfall, long hours of sunshine and well-drained soil.

BOH Tea Plantation is a must-visit place when you are in Cameron Highlands; Scenic, tranquil, cool fresh air, edu­cating and a refreshing brew to quench the thirst. The road journey to the BOH Tea Plantation is an adventure in itself with its narrow and winding road.

Narrow roads aside, the view of green rolling hills with neat rows of tea plantations is simply breathtaking. The Sg Palas ‘ummph!’ BOH TEA Plantation offers free, guided factory tours of how the tea leaf is processed, topped off with a tipple of your favorite brew in the recently ex­panded Tea Rooms. The actual tea factory is still left intact in its old condition – white painted brick walls with red window panes. Inside, while most of the machines have been modernized to cater for the increasing demand, you can subtly feel the old world’s era of tea making. It is as though you were being transported to the day when the scent of freshly picked tea-leaves from their first and second flushes – tea terminology for harvest – were interspersed with the bitter smell of the fermented ones.

Last year Boh opened a tea centre at the plantation with a tea cafe to mesmerize even the most buzzing bee! Exquisitely named tea blends such as Gunung Chantik, Palas Supreme and Bukit Cheeding are featured on the menu, along with Boh alternative range such as Jasmine Green Tea, Chamomile, Peppermint, Lemon Myrtle, Passionfruit Orange, Stawberry Raspberry as well as the Seri Songket flavored teas like Vanilla, Passion Fruit, Clove & Cardamom, Cinnamon, Earl Grey with Tangerine, Lemon with Mandarin, Lychee with Rose, Lime & Ginger and Mango. The choices are plentiful and offer something for everyone.

Narrative posters are arranged along the pathway to tell the history of Boh Tea Company and the natural environment of Cameron Highlands. There is also a video room where visitors can view short documentaries about tea processing and the heritage behind it. Tea Inside-Out

As I discovered on my visit, there is more to the tea bush than meets the eye or simply quenches the thirst. When it was suggested I gave my body a celestial spa seasoning by bathing in the brew, I was surprised and curious to say the least.

My research after visiting the region unveiled studies published in leading medical journals de­claring that tea is a potential heart tonic, cancer blocker, fat buster, virus fighter and cholesterol detoxifier; it also helps to stimulate the immune system and soothes arthritis. Not bad for a lowly shrub.

If all those are what a cuppa can do for you on the inside, then just image what it might do for you if you bathed in it. The antioxidants, hydrating properties, caffeine and fluoride found in tea mean that you need never feel guilty about reaching for the teapot and in The Spa Village at Cameron Highlands Resort, they offer it in tubs for you to soak in.

The Spa Village has fully embraced the natural resources of its immediate environment and taken it a step further to offer guests health benefits from the surroundings, taking visitors beyond their expecta­tions with the spa menu choices.

Signature Spa Treatments
Fresh Strawberry Escapade begins with a Strawberry Tea Bath, a beautiful sensual aqua experience with a difference. While relaxing music via earphones soothes frayed nerves, tea bags resting on the eyes will ease away tension and stress, leaving the body rehydrated and the mind rejuvenated. Following this is the refreshing body buff made of fresh strawberries, yoghurt and crushed oatmeal. The combination con­tains natural alpha-hydroxy acids that help soften and refine skin texture. Finally, the treatment rounds off with a scented massage treat to enhance sensations of pleasure and wellness to deeply heal the mind and body, soothing the soul as it does.

The Semai are the indigenous people of the State of Pahang where Cameron High­lands is located. In their culture, every forest product has a specific use. This cor­pus of knowledge accumulated though generations are not recorded, but within the minds of the elders who have mastered the skill through practice. It appears there is no ailment that cannot be cured using plants and their parts gathered from the jungle. Benefiting from this knowledge, The Spa Village has created Jungle Secrets of Anti-Ageing for Her and the Tok Batin Mystical Tradition for Him. Both provide three hours of bathing, massage, wraps and scrubs treatments incorporating these indigenous practices. These healing therapies are offered in the tranquil environment of one of the six treatment rooms here. Other than the six treatment rooms, there are eight tea bath tubs, two outdoor cabanas and a fully-equipped gymnasium.

The Cameron Highlands Resort also organizes guided day-treks into the jungle that are very informative and ensure you wont be wandering the hills the wrong way leaving you with three days between villages! This is where Jim Thompson mysteri­ously disappeared and was never found despite sending out the SAS troops. Off the tarmac road the paths require good walking shoes and you get a first hand oppor­tunity to learn about the fruits of the jungle and medicinal properties of plants. For the less adventurous who seek a stroll and exercise, the 18-hole golf course is just across the road.

For more information visit
www.cameronhighlandsresort.com, www.boh.com.my

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Just The Tipple!

History has lent a turbulent ride to this proud city. After 73 years seething under French occupation along came the Japanese to grasp a steely grip on the city from 1940 to 1945. Upon their fall Ho Chi Minh declared independence from Hanoi’s Ba Hinh Square. But again the breath of freedom was short lived and for the following eight years Hanoi struggled
with the French, finally casting them aside to be met with the prospect of managing a country split in two along ideological lines.

And in 1964 along came Uncle Sam, fortifying the south in a war that would last over ten years, bringing the city, and the country to its knees. When the Americans finally flew home Hanoi was a crippled victor; like a starving soldier emerging from a war zone with no food on the table. The following twenty years of international sanctions would leave the city in a hollow of depression, reliant upon Russian food and with little outside contact.

The country’s great liberator, Ho Chi Minh died in 1969, long before the end
e war but his memory lives on and even today his legacy can be seen
ughout the city. In the Old Quarter where modern, international restau­
ts and fashion stores attest to the emergence of a cosmopolitan capital his
ge is ubiquitous. In fashion stores you’ll find his portrait splashed across
hirts, in side street cafes he’ll be looking down at you from an old glass
e, in the city’s numerous art galleries his portrait remains a favorite sub-
for today’s artists and on every bank note he’s still there. Communism
y finally buckle and break under the capitalist surge that’s finally breath­ing life into this city but the burning legacy of Ho Chi Minh, Uncle of the People will take a lot longer to fade.

No one is waiting for things to happen in Hanoi. Stop for a moment and street hawkers will swarm around selling everything from banana’s to flesh colored Christ’s that glow in the dark. Hanoi gives cities like Singapore and Bangkok the appearance of sleeping giants. Communism may hold the reigns of power in Vietnam, but it’s capitalism that feeds this city and sets the pace. This may seem like a marriage made in hell, but when I ask the owner of my guest house what he thinks of the idea of democracy in Vietnam, he laughs and replies, half jokingly “You live in Bangkok. Look at the mess democracy has left you with. We’ll have democracy one day, but not yet, people are too busy making money and taking care of their families.”

Hanoi is essentially a city with strong roots in culture and traditions. The people are proud of their music, art and literature. A stroll through the narrow streets of the Old Quarter will reveal a vibrant art scene. Galleries and craft shops are as common as 7-11’s and massage parlors in Bangkok. Some of the streets open up, while others narrow into a warren of alleyways where the occasional scent of freshly baked croissants could fool anyone into believing they’re following a picture book tour through the backstreets of Paris. Turning a corner can be like spinning the globe as you find yourself at the entrance of a Chinese temple dating back to the 15th century, and beside that an internet café packed with school kids playing computer games, forging ahead, for better or worse into the 21st century.

‘The Rapid Leap Forward’ that Hanoi has achieved in economic terms has naturally fil­tered down to the lifestyle of young people in this very traditional city, often creating a fractious relationship with the older population. When the late afternoon sun casts shadows across the tree lined streets of Hanoi, the people brace themselves for another night of moonlit activ­ity. Neon-lit bars serving fashionable drinks and playing an eclectic mix of modern tunes are springing up in growing numbers. Hidden away in the backstreets of the Old Quarter, some are surreptitiously finding ways to defy the orders of the police (known mockingly as ‘the fun police’) who order that all bars close by midnight on weekdays and 1am at the week­end. However, to make the most of a night out in Hanoi, it’s best to encom­pass all aspects of this ancient city whose roots trace back to the Neolithic period, and whose legends speak proudly of victory and survival.

Night Tour

Hanoi is a night city with a strong fusion of European styles reflected in its cuisine, music and architecture. One fine example of French fusion is the Hoa Sua restaurant where a string quartet plays Mozart and Bach in a courtyard dwarfed by a spiraling staircase. Not only will you get great value for money here, you should also feel no guilt while stuffing yourself with frogs legs and Cognac.  Hoa Sua is a successful goodwill project that takes in and trains a steady stream of disadvantaged kids for a culinary career. Like Oliver Twist of old, they’ve been rescued from the streets so enjoy another cognac, listen to the music and steady yourself for the next stage of the night
tour.

Traditionally, Vietnam is known for its strange food. For those seeking a ‘walk on the wild side’ of Vietnamese cuisine, it’s possible to test your gut control with beaten dog meat, duck embryo, field mice, buffalo penis and crickets. For guys who feel the need to prove their masculinity, king cobra could be the ideal tonic. Difficult to find but notorious in their existence are ‘snake restaurants’. For around US$30 per person they’ll kill a venomous snake before your eyes, cut out its still beating heart, feed it to you with a cup of the serpent’s blood and tell you it increases your potency.

I choose to save this particular treat for a future date and instead wave down a taxi to take me to a bar on the edge of the Old Quarter called Highway4.

Highway4 is a dimly lit drinking den swimming in the mystical, medicinal and intoxicating qualities of Vietnamese rice liquor, known to locals as Zio. Zio is the liquor that was drunk by the emperors of Vietnam and many of the bar’s 25 different recipes come served with anecdotes relating to ancient Vietnamese rulers. Enter with caution as your first sight will be a row of huge glass containers filled with various shades of pale amber liquid and crammed with herbs and plants that bring to mind an episode from The Triffids. There’s one glass container voluminous enough to encapsulate a child within which is coiled a snake large enough to consume an adult.

Try not to catch the eyes of the cobra as you walk past and up a narrow, rick­ety staircase to the rooftop terrace where the serious business of drinking begins. Curiosity killed the cat but not before it got drunk so I settle down, cross-legged, at a twelve-inch high bamboo table and follow my fingertip down the drinks list.

Among the several blends there are a couple that catch my eye: Ong Den; made from the rare black bee, recommended for its earthy honey taste and Ran Ngu Xa; blended with venomous snake, powerful and sprightly as it coils a passage around your taste buds.

For those seeking an aphrodisiac, there’s Minh Mang, named after a Viet­namese emperor who ruled from 1820 to 1840. Notorious for his uncount­able concubines, legend has it he fathered around 300 children. Having died before the age of 40, the mind boggles at this guy’s work rate. I soon find the answer in the menu; Nhat Da Ngu Giao, the most potent of rice whiskies. Drink enough of this concoction and the claim is you’ll be producing four children per night. Marvelous – if you’re not suffering from brewers droop.

After a night in Highway4 you may find yourself struggling to walk let alone procreate. But if for you the night is still young, there’s the newly opened Roots drinking den that’ll thrash out quality music into the early hours. This is a favorite of ex-pats and locals alike. The ambience is friendly, open and rough edged. Canvasses painted in a style to please no one but those with an eye for ‘the creative’ hang from the walls, while the music of The Prodigy and Arctic Monkeys assures a clientele who understand music.

By the time I leave Roots the stars are fading and it won’t be long before the sun once again wakes up the city. But for now it’s silent, the only disturbance coming from an elderly man remonstrating with his son for returning home late and drunk.

Sweet dreams, Hanoi.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Postcard From Hanoi

Almost twenty years has passed since Laos opened her arms to the tourist cir­cuit, emerging as the new darling of Southeast Asia, untouched by the frantic pace of life the majority of us city dwellers have become accustomed to. The country’s capital Vientiane is in essence the antithesis of other Southeast Asian capitals such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hanoi and Bangkok.

Tracing the swerve of the Mekong River Vientiane is centrally located with rugged mountains to the north and fertile lowlands to the south. With a population of just over half a million, the city holds sway as the fulcrum of Laos culture, commerce and administration and is considered, by Laos standards as being busy. However, all things are relative and if there were a poll to nominate the world’s quietest capital city I suspect Vientiane would feature somewhere in the top six. Vientiane is a city of gentle charms where the future dangles on tentative hooks like a ball and chain waiting to be released.

The most obvious sign of the city’s French heritage is the central boulevard which bears a striking resem­blance to the Champs Elysees. The lure of Vientiane has much to do with the fact that breakneck develop­ment has yet to sweep aside the soul of this sleepy capital, where temples and religious affiliations blend with the rural foundations of the city. The majority of the city’s sights are situated within a relatively close proximity due to the fact that an urban sprawl has yet to materialize.

Rebuilt by the French after the Siamese army left it in virtual ruins in 1828, the city doesn’t feature French-style architecture as prominently as, say, Saigon or Phnom Penh. But the local penchant for producing stomach-filling baguettes and fragrant coffee clearly shows that the influence of the French still lingers on. Laos continues to triumph in its ability to fascinate and beguile visitors, in part due to its understated ap­proach to luxury, inherent beauty and baw en nyang – no problem attitude. Time and the Chinese will tell whether the charming beer huts and open air restau­rants on the banks of the Mekong will be replaced by the kind of polished resorts and upscale coffee shops that are affordable to about 2% of the population.

For now Vientiane offers a soothing alternative to the chaos of Bangkok and Hanoi – gleaming skyscrapers, droves of rickshaws and legions of street vendors are few and far between in ‘Southeast Asia’s biggest vil­lage’.

What to Do
The French coined the phrase ‘The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow and the Laos listen to it grow’. The national psyche is decidedly laid back, which is of course part of its appeal, rent­ing a push bike can be done from many of the hotels in the city and this will give you easy access to the surrounding sights and sounds of Vientiane. Here are some of the things definitely worth checking out when in town.

Every Saturday local monks lead a walking and sitting meditation session at Wat Sok Pa Luang. Between 4 pm and 5:30 pm the sessions take place in pa­vilions and within the garden. Everyone is welcome, the session is, of course, free of charge and a translator is present for the after-period question time. Twice a year the Buddhist teacher holds intensive Vispassana meditation workshops at the monastery, open to all who wish to join.

Four kilometers away from the bridge that links Thailand to Laos – the Friendship Bridge – is the 18-hole Youth Garden Golf Course. As the first course to be established within the city it can be accessed by non members for about 16 USD on weekdays and a little more on weekends, inclusive of the caddy fee. You can bring your own clubs, or rent a set. A quiet nine-hole course set in well-tended grounds, the Youth Garden Golf Course is consid­ered the hub of expatriate activity in Vientiane. Members’ tournaments fea­ture regularly on the weekends; however, you are guaranteed a quiet round on weekday afternoons.

Time and the Chinese will tell whether the charming beer huts and open air restaurants on the banks of the Mekong will be replaced by the kind of polished resorts and upscale coffee shops that are affordable to about 2% of the population.

For many years the country’s ancient silk-weaving tradition was lost under the Communist regime. With the help of foreign influence and interest from the likes of American weaver Carol Cassidy who started Lao Textiles in 1990, the once elaborate and endangered art form is experiencing a renais­sance. ‘Spinning a yarn’ in Laos is an inherent part of the culture; visitors can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them using a traditional loom. Weaving orientation is both an educational and practical exercise where visitors can learn about the process of weaving and improve their knowledge of various types.

Patuxai (literally Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph), formerly the Anousa­vary or Anousavari Monument, is situated in the centre of Vientiane. Built between 1962 and 1968, the Laotians built it as a mark of respect for all those who fought in the struggle for independence from the French. Ironically, the monument bears more than a slight resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe, al­though the attention to detail and intricate design is typically Laotian, boast­ing four rather than two archways. The view from the top is spectacular. Built with cement that was purchased from America, with the intention of constructing a new airport, the locals sometimes refer to the monument as the ‘vertical runway’. Snap happy tourists can be forgiven for assuming this monument holds pride of place in the hearts of the people, but the truth may be far from that. Painted on the buildings southwest corner is a description that reveals the Laos’s endearing honesty and naivity to ‘First World’ pre-occupations like marketing. One sentence reads, “From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete.”

Where to Stay
The Green Park Boutique Hotel
Vientiane’s first and only boutique hotel has paved the way for the city to build a reputation around quaint hospitality, capturing the true essence of a boutique residence, the personalized service is merely enhanced by the complimentary refreshments and WiFi within rooms. The Green Park is a defining factor in Vien­tiane’s arrival as a visitor destination, the typical Lao­tian interior includes good exposure to light, clean lines and earthy tones; creating a soothing retreat, equipped with an abundance of greenery to be enjoyed from the spacious balconies all of which feature pool and gar­den views. The harmonious balance of the architecture and interior is notably the influence of the hotels owner who comes from a design background.

Le Silapa – French Restaurant
17/1 Sihom Road, Ban Haysok, Vientiane
Tel: 021 – 219 – 689

Green Park Boutique Hotel
248 Khouvieng Road, Ban Nongchanch
PO Box 9698

Situated alongside one of the city’s largest parks, the Green Park sits half an hour walk out side of town. (A shuttle bus runs regularly throughout the day but the walk is unsurpris­ingly pleasant).Each of the 34 (in four categories) guestrooms speak the language of boutique with everything from the in­dividually chosen pieces of art to the characteristically Laos fabrics adding to the overriding comfort and understated el­egance of the space.

Beyond the accommodation the Sala Nong Chan Restaurant is in a separate pavilion, the outdoor terrace overlooks the park and a meandering lake, a subtle compliment to the inter­national dishes on offer. Guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner here or alternatively take the room service option. Like the restaurant the Spa and lobby are in separate buildings. The Champa Laos Spa was under construction at the time of visit­ing but the impressive menu of traditional Laos massage and facial and body treatments will surely not disappoint. Classic rooms in the hotel go for 145 USD a night, inclusive of breakfast and round trip airport transfers.

Where to Eat
There is a distinct European charm when dining out in Vien­tiane, where you can watch the locals and tourists go about their business; an experience sometimes lost in the more hec­tic and polluted cities of Hanoi and Bangkok- basically you are not sharing your meal with a side order of exhaust fumes.
The riverside, open air restaurants overlooking the Mekong River are laden with traditional Laos, French-fusion and Indi­an restaurants all at a very reasonable price. The French food in Vientiane is something everyone should try, in typical Laos style the unassuming shop front of Le Silapa (a converted rail­way house) does not shout ‘best French cuisine in town’ but that is certainly the case. You can’t help but think about the fortune you would be paying in Europe or the US had you been eating the duck foie gras there. Don’t feel obliged to keep wine consumption to a minimum as every bottle of wine or­dered contributes to a medical fund for economically disad­vantaged children.

So drink and be merry, listen to the rice grow and savor the slow and easy charms of Vientiane – before the riff raff come flooding in.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Spirit of Vientiane