Quite possibly Bangkok’s finest Indian restaurant the Rang Mahal offers superior cuisine in a warm setting. Ken Pearce enjoys an evening in the Rembrandt Hotel’s flagship restaurant.

We must eat to live, that’s stating the obvious. But we require more. We need to eat, relax and above all enjoy that experience. It is insufficient simply to pay to eat what is put before you. Other senses must be satisfied: taste, texture, presentation, service, ambiance, all should play their part in providing that gratifying culinary experience offered with great cuisine. In today’s stress filled world, be it business or hectic multi-country tourist travelling, it is insufficient to present great cuisine if the other requisites are absent.

The Rang Mahal Restaurant amply meets those demands. The words that come to mind on reaching the 26^th floor of the Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, and entering their renowned Indian Restaurant, The Rang Mahal, are “elegant” and “grand.”  The same can be said of the Rembrandt Hotel itself. The Indian influence is, indeed, authentic. The hotel is independently owned by Thais of Indian origin. The Rang Mahal is a genuinely “grand” and “authentic” Indian restaurant whose ambiance is definitely elegant and emphatically Indian. One enters a large, deeply carpeted space with seating for about two hundred guests. Its size, however, is not overpowering because the carpets, fine furnishings and table placements are designed to give a sense of intimacy, and because a good proportion of its tables are arranged so diners will enjoy the spectacular views of Bangkok along two fully plate-glassed walled sides. In the evenings those diners whose tables are placed in the centre of the restaurant can view the Indian musicians who are flown over from India and who provide very relaxing, genuine Indian music throughout the meal.

The Rang Mahal’s extensive menu offers food from various regions of India; Kerala, Goa, the Punjab, the North West and Delhi, Hyderabad, the North East and Bengal. But I fancy the greatest influence is that from North India and the Punjab, with rich curries such as Rogan Gosh and many tandoori kebab dishes, uniquely marinated and cooked in the clay “tandoor” oven so popular in that region. Indeed the delicious house speciality, Raan-e-Khyber – tender lamb leg, marinated in rum, exotic herbs and spices then barbequed on charcoal, is ample evidence of that influence.

The Rang Mahal has been a flagship restaurant of The Rembrandt for over 16 years. Jovial Chef Rajan Mishra has been in residence for seven of those years. He hails from Delhi. His pedigree as a chef is impressive, having worked for very many years at several of the renowned Taj Group of Hotels in the sub-continent and also at the prestigious Bombay Brasserie in London. His menu is very attractively designed, although I imagine it might be a bit difficult to read at night if seated on the terrace outside – yes, there are a few tables to allow diners to eat al fresco if that is their wish. It is presented on a wooden base and features a picture of the Palace of the Winds in Jaipur. The leaves fold back to reveal a very wide range of dishes: meat, chicken, fish and vegetarian with accompaniments and sides and a large selection of sweets. My fellow guest and I wished to sample as wide a variety as possible. We chose one of the three special menus of convenience designed to satisfy those who might otherwise be bewildered by the variety.

Each special menu had a name: The Maharani, The Maharaja, and The Rang Mahal Special. We chose The Maharaja. First came a plate of pappadoms with three pickles: baby mild pickled onions, mango chutney, and a mint dipping sauce. To follow that there was marinated boneless fish kebabs, chicken tikka tandoori and a delicious small vegetable samosa accompanied by a tamarind sauce. Next, a presentation of three very tasty ‘curries’: Rogan Gosh Kashmiri (tender pot roasted mutton cooked in thick onion gravy with selected Indian spices), Murgh Makhanwala (succulent chicken simmered in a creamy fenugreek flavoured tomato gravy; I was particularly attracted to this dish)! Vegetable Jaipuri (mixed vegetables in a yellow curry), Dal-Maa-Rang Mahal (black lentils simmered slowly and laced with cream) accompanied by Basmati Rice Pulao, flavoured with cumin, and an assortment of Naan bread and Parathas. The desert on this menu was Gulab Jamun (cream cheese dumplings in almond flavoured sweet syrup) for the dieter it is “naughty but nice!” Khun Shubhangi Bhaisare, the Restaurant and Indian Banquets Manager also persuaded us to try a small portion of Rasmalai (a divine tasting kind of Indian cheese cake served in sweet reduced milk, topped with pistachios, and then some Kulfi (a delicious Indian Ice cream made from reduced milk and tasting of almonds and pistachio).

The wine list must be given a mention. Besides the usual selection of Old and New World wines, most originally, and very successfully in my opinion, the list includes Indian wine from Maharashtra under the, “Ivy,” label. There were a couple of whites on offer – a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Sémillon; A Sparkling Brut méthode Champagnoise; A Shiraz and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Based on our bottle of Sauvignon Sémillon they are well worth a try. Not cheap, (but what wine is in Thailand!) but they would be a successful introduction to Indian wines.

Rembrandt Hotel – Rang Mahal Restaurant

19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit Road, Klong Toei, 10110 Bangkok, Thailand
Phone +66 (0) 2261 7100 — Fax +66 (0) 2261 7017

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Rang Mahal – An Indian Feast

Traversing the Orient’s wine guru, Laurence Civil, guzzles the grape and lets us in on the mysteries of the Orient.

Grace Vineyard is located at an altitude of 870-950 meters above sea level in Taigu County, 40km south of the provincial capital of Tai Yuan. It enjoy s a continental climate with minimal rainfall; having sunny days with temperatures reaching as high as 40ºC and falling to 20ºC at night which is ideal for wine making. With help from Denis Bolas, detailed research was done to find the areas with the right soil. On 28^th August 1997 CK Chan and Sylvian Janvier laid the foundations for the Grace Vineyards.

The original estate included a winery surrounded by 150 hectares of vineyards planted with 11 varieties of imported French vines to see which would grow in the different plots. After a couple of years of trials it was decided to downsize the estate to 68.5 hectares. Today it has expanded to 200 hectares with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, 6% Chardonnay and small portions of Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Marsane vines. These three vines collectively account for 5% of total land under vine. To ensure the quality of the fruit the vines are trimmed to yield six tons per hectare.

Great attention to details is taken in all stages of production and visiting overseas winemakers work with the management to refine the winemaking procedure. After four years of methodical cultivation the first harvest came in 2001.

CK Chan had the sense to realize that for a family winery to produce quality wine will be an arduous process requiring a generation of effort and devotion. He therefore recruited his daughter Judy, persuading her to quit her job with Goldman Sachs in Hong Kong to take over the vineyard operations and become President of Grace Vineyards this year.

The first of their wines I tasted was from their Vineyard Series’ that are wines using grapes from the most recent harvest, often serves as an introductory step to our vintage. It can be matched with a variety of foods, and is a very good choice as a daily wine. The ‘Vineyard Series’ have become a popular choice of table wine among many five star hotels and top restaurants throughout Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong.

The Vineyard Rose 2008 is made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit.  In the glass it has a brilliant pale magenta; on the nose fresh berry fruits with floral highlights and; in the mouth it’s round and soft with well balanced acidity for freshness. The flavour is long, mouth filling and dry.

I then tasted three wines from their Premium Series that are single grape variety wine as well as blended wine. Primarily made using fruits from the most recent harvest, these wines are cellared for up to 10 months in Reserve Series old barrels.

The Premium Chenin Blanc 2008 was great. In the glass it is very pale with green tinges, typical of a cool climate wine. On the nose there is an aroma of apple blossom with a touch of tropical fruit to add complexity.  When young these wines are tightly structured and develop into excellent complex examples of the style with several years of bottle age.

On with the Premium Chardonnay 2008 – in the glass the colour is between light straw to gold; on the nose melon and peach dominate and in the mouth one discovers a full flavoured wine with just a hint of oak and cream. This wine will mature more quickly than past Grace Vineyard Chardonnays.

The third was Premium Cabernet Merlot, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. In the glass the wine has a brick red; on the nose aromas of sweet fruits with toasty notes and; in the mouth light to medium bodied red with good acidity and sweet notes.

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The Amazing Grace of Chinese Wine

Indus, like India itself offers the visitor a rich and colorful abode full of spice and surprises. Built into a 1960’s art deco house the restaurant’s design theme echoes the northern Indian cultural heritage of the Indus Valley Civilization, dating back over 2,000 years.

Herbs and spices blend with a visual feast of oil paintings depicting historical scenes from Indian folklore. Jagged sandstone walls, antique doors, wall tapestries and giant pots with serpent nozzles create an authentic feel of the era.

Behind the restaurant is the Indus Bar and a Moghul inspired lounge boasting plush leather sofas, natural dyed colored cushions and rustic brick pillars. The predominant color is red which contrasts well with the illuminated garden pulsating under tropical vines. Here guests can relax on large cushion chairs, smoke hookah pipes and listen to crickets compete with the restaurant’s ambient sounds.

Wine from just about every corner of the globe is available, even – would you believe it – from India. A bottle of red from the Maharashtra state, not far from Mumbai, goes well with the obligatory chutney, onions and poppadoms. The wine is surprisingly good but the chutney just isn’t spicy enough. “Never mind” says my host “we have spicy chutney we save for our Indian guests”.

That an Englishman won’t like spicy food is a false assumption. The Indian meal has replaced fish and chips as our favorite dish, many a farang longs for the hot spices typically found in London and Delhi.

Sorted with some decent chutney I drop some ice into my wine and fling down a gulp to cool the buds and ready myself for the next course. Mulaiyan Shiekh Kebab – tender minced mutton barbequed on skewers and infused with garlic, onion, ginger, coriander and spices. Absolutely delicious, the mutton, all too often written off as the dead meat of sheep becomes transformed when marinated in such a way.

It’s so good I’m tempted to go another round but the choices before me are huge so I choose a dish from an untamed corner of the Himalayas. Badami Gosht: Kashmir tender lamb in almond coco milk and yoghurt spice. Not being the most commonly found meat in Thailand lamb always comes as a treat. No less so on this occasion. The yoghurt and spice add a fresh zest to the tender flesh and before I look up it’s gone.

Outside the moon is up and the garden is swelling with revelers. Besides being a popular venue for small groups and couples Indus is also popular as an events destination. Private and corporate parties are regularly held here. The second floor VIP rooms can accommodate groups of sixty with wireless internet, volume and temperature controls and spacious balconies overlooking the garden. Tonight the Indus Bar has been booked for a birthday party and many of the revelers have spilt into the garden and are disappearing behind smoke from the hookah pipes.

Back inside I cork another Indian red and work into my final course. Tandoori Tiger Prawns: nothing complicated, just perfect. Fresh barbequed tiger prawns marinated in butter, garlic and herbs. The juices get soaked up with what’s left of the Kashmir naan.

Having polished my plate the outdoor bar conjures up a myriad of cocktails too numerous to mention while a few rounds of apple tobacco from a five foot high hookah seals the night with authentic flavors.

Indus offers a broad range of fine Indian cuisine at very reasonable prices. A good choice for all you lovers of authentic Indian food – but if you do like it hot, remember to order the Indian chutney.

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Some Like It Hot!

In a recent conversation with Steve Reader – Win­emaker for SIMI in California – I learnt that in the US 90% of wine is drunk within two days of purchase. It strikes me as an alarming statistic that goes to prove that the overwhelming trend is to purchase wine on an as needed basis – much in the way we purchase a hamburger and coke.

Wine is a consumer item bought as part of the weekly groceries. Our choices are determined by the food we plan to prepare in the coming week and see­ing as most of us store wine in the refridgerator space is generaly limited.

The idea of laying down wines for future generations is a grandiose concept
requiring serious cash investment on which we aren’t looking for a quick return. Few and far between are those lucky enough to have a rich grandfa­ther or an eccentric uncle who laid down a few cases dated the year we were born.

If the vintage of our birth was outstanding there would be an indulgent pleasure in sharing that wine with friends. However, if the vintage were dis­appointing would that be a bad reflection on us? Would we be prepared to do the same for our grandchildren and would they thank us when the time came to drink their wines.

Cellaring or simply storing wines correctly, whether it’s for two days or two decades is essential to preserve wines in their best condition. Most quality wines with high tannins improve with age and develop greater complexity. But how many of us have the suitable accommodation to store cases of wine for 20 years – and for that matter how many of us can be bothered. For most of us the favored option is to allow someone else to take on that responsibility.

Tannins are the key factor winemakers consider when making a wine for aging as they are the element that lends structure. The grapes with the best tannins are primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo and Shiraz. If red wines are to be drunk younger they will require less tannins. This in turn leads to a change in the way wines are made and a shift in the grapes used. Is a young cabernet as attractive as young merlot or pinot noir? Would a light style of Bordeaux be as attractive as the heavy clarets to which we are more accustomed?

If the drink young trend becomes established it strengthens the argument for screw caps as corks only come into their own with wines that are stored for five years or longer. Also, today wine isn’t just drunk at the table but at picnics, concerts and sports events.

At some festivals glasses are banned. This has led to wine being packaged in cans and paper cartons, causing purists to faint at the thought of such sac­rilege – but why? Guy Anderson Wines launched its CanCan canned wine brand at the recent London Wine Fair. Included in the canned wines are sau­vignon blanc, a rosé pinot grigio and a sparkling prosecco targeting female wine drinkers who might want to pack their wine along with their asparins when heading out for events such as music festivals.

We drink beer and soft drinks from bottles and cans. Surely, if canned wine doesn’t compromise the taste and allows people to carry their favorite tip­ple to music events and the such then where’s the harm? The younger wine drinker is looking for wine options which are practical and which can de­liver – snobbism be dammed.

This trend won’t wipe out great quality, aging wines. It will merely broaden accesibility, streamlining those who truly appreciate the type of fine wine whose quality and value increase with time.

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Wine Consumption in the 21st Century

Creating menus that evoke a “sense of place” as he puts it, is not an altogether
alien concept for the Columbian culinary artist. Born in Bogota, Chef Pardo de
Ayala started his culinary experiments at a young age in his mother’s kitchen. “My mom once asked me to help her in the kitchen, she paid me afterwards and since that moment I’ve never looked back. I fell in love with cooking and pursued the art from there on”, he says.

Inside the kitchen, Chef Pardo is in his element. “I rose fast in my career. At 24 years old, I became one of the best known chef ’s in my own country. I quickly became executive chef, which meant a lot of paper work and took me away from the kitchen. I did not like this at all. I have to be in the kitchen to explore more and learn more, thus assuring my continued evolution as a culinary artist,” he continues.

Chef Pardo de Ayala brings more than 15 years of diverse culinary experience to the resort. In 1993, when he was only 20, he became the youngest winner ever of his country’s national culinary contest, the Nestle “Toca de Oro,” and represented Columbia in gastronomic competitions at an international level.

After a few years as chef de partie in five star hotels and as Executive Chef of independent operations, Chef Pardo de Ayala traveled to New York and worked in Lespinasse, Le Bernardin, and at Restaurant Bouley, a four star Michelin restaurant famous for its delicious French style food.

In the Philippines since 1997, he opened Soleil Res­taurant in Makati and worked as head Chef of Aqua Restaurant at the Enterprise Center and at the Soleil Moderne Cafe at Greenbelt 2.

An avid and passionate teacher to his colleagues in the kitchen, Chef Pardo de Ayala strongly believes in sharing his craft and mentoring culinarians. Recently, he was awarded the Maitre Rotisseur by the Chaine des Rotisseurs. He is also an active member of Les Toques Blanches. As Corporate Chef of the Discovery Group, he is directly in charge of all the restaurants of the Discovery properties.

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David Pardo de Ayala: A Passionate Chef and Teacher

Port,  a  fortified wine  from Portugal’s Douro Valley  takes  its  name from the city of Oporto that is situated  at  the mouth  of Rio Douro or River of Gold. Although many port-style wines are made around the world – most notably Australia, South Africa and the United States – the strict usage of the terms Port or  Porto  refer  only  to wines  produced in Portugal.

In 1756 the Douro Valley was probably the world’s first officially Port, a fortified wine from Portu-demarcated wine region. It is no doubt the world’s most diffi­cult wine growing region. It is a region that covers over 618,000 gal’s Douro Valley takes its name acres, 10 to 12% of which is used to cultivate vine planted on the from the city of Oporto that is sit-harsh, rugged mountains that rise up from the Douro River and its tributaries. The best grapes are grown at the lower elevations, uated at the mouth of Rio Douro there is a local saying that the best port comes from the grapes that can hear the river flowing.

“Today I would like you to try four of our ports,” says Jorge. “I don’t like serving Port in a sherry glass as the flavours and aromas are corseted, I prefer a simple white the world – most notably Australia, wine glass to optimize the taste experience, not a red wine glass as that releases too much alcohol. I also like to serve them just below European room temperature (18­South Africa and the United States 20ºC) in general as at this point the taste is perfectly structured, any warmer and the brandy in the port becomes too dominant and spoils the taste experience.

“I would like you to start with our Fine Ruby Port that is full-bodied with youthful freshness and an attractive, luscious fruit. You will notice that in the glass the wine is very deep-coloured, on the nose it’s intensely aromatic, bottled young to retain the assertiveness of the fruit, black cherry with a balanced intense finish. Ruby is an everyday Port, suitable for enjoying anytime. I like to pair this with young Italian Parmesan, Gorgonzola, French Brie, dried fruits and nuts.

“Next I would like you to try our 2001 Late Bottle Vintage (LBV), which like a Vintage Port is a wine of a single year but it’s not ‘declared’ Vintage Port. The difference between Vintage and LBV is that vintage spends only two years in casks and is bottle matured, whereas LBV is aged in casks and is bottled with light filtration at between four to six years. By the time LBV is bottled it’s already matured and ready to drink without the need for decant­ing.” He paired it with an Earl Grey brullee, the idea of which seemed odd but works surprisingly well.

For my third port experience Jorge poured “The Tawny”, a special premium blend of ‘lotes’ of wine aged for seven to nine years in seasoned (previously used) wooden cask. This wine is the ultimate example of the art of the win­emaker, who has carefully selected different wines that his experience tells him will compliment each other when blended together.

“In this wine,” he continues, “you will discover a fine balance of mellowed fruit and nuttiness, due to extended cask aging and from where it gets a characteristic warm amber tone. A rich and complex wine that has a soft aroma of toasted almonds and a hint of orange peel and spice, full and gen­erous, enticing flavors with a long decadent finish. May I suggest you try it with milk chocolate.” I was surprised at the pairing, chocolate not cheese, but having tasted his recommendation he was right.

To conclude my Port class, the 1996 Malvedos Vintage Port made from grapes of the Qinta dos Maledos, south facing and rated the finest vine­yards in the Alto Douro. The wine was matured in seasoned oak casks for 24 months before being bottled without filtration or fining to retain the purety of the taste. In the glass there is a dark and intense colour; on the nose a lus­cious ripeness with intense youthful aromas of red fruit with a hint of mint and eucalyptus. On the palate I discovered rich full bodied flavors that were packed with layers of fruit and firm tannins that hold together to create a long, sweet finish.

Vintage Port, due to the nature of how it was made has sediment and needs to be decanted not because it looks posh but for the sake of the taste. Take the bottle from the wine rack and place it upright for a couple of hours then very slowly decant, taking care to keep any sediment in the bottle.

“This goes well with salty cheeses such as Gorgonzola or some Italian Sa­lami,” Jorge concludes. “If the Port is still young it also will pair nicely with dark bitter chocolate.”

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The Pleasure of Port

When she was growing up, Cecile Ysmael would always observe her mother each time she cooked for the family. She grew up in a family that loved to eat. A trip abroad after graduation opened her horizons and exposed her to different kinds of cuisine. She started to experiment on her own and would observe enly the dishes she tasted each time she ate out with friends.

Her marriage to Louis Ysmael, a man with an adventurous palate who is a whiz in the kitchen, opened her eyes to the world of food. He would take her on trips to different countries where they both enjoyed the cuisine. They both enjoyed Tai cuisine and would go to Thailand often just to eat authentic Thai food. Back home she experimented with Thai food and would invite friends for Thai home cooked dinner. Her friends encouraged her to take up Thai cuisine which she did intermittently. On other occasions she would travel to Thailand to study the cuisine. In the span of six years, she studied Thai cuisine in different schools in Thailand: Phuket Thai Cooking School, Chiang Mai Cookery School, The Khaohom Culinary School in also in Chiang Mai and The Oriental Hotel Cooking School in Bangkok.

In November, 2006, Cecile Ysmael finally realized her dream of opening her own Thai restaurant which she named SILK. It was a very successful venture and after two years she decided to diversify by opening a second restaurant, The Terrace at 5th which serves popular Filipino and continental dishes.

The success of her two restaurants has inspired Cecile Ysmael to raise the bar. “It is so inspiring and rewarding to see people patronizing both my  restaurants and as a wife and mother, I feel blessed that I am able to blend my work with my family life as well. My foray  into the restaurant business is the culmination of my dreams. My husband has encouraged me  to dream big and helped me realize them and for this I am grateful!”

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Thai Cuisine Is Her Specialty

Executive Chef Armin Brandtner sees to it that Dusit Thani Ma­nila’s kitchen is anything but boring. Keeping staff on their toes with ideas on how to keep the cuisine interesting means there’s never a dull moment either in the kitchen or on the table tops.

Chef Brandtner is no stranger to the art of avante garde cui­sine. Trained as an executive chef he has toiled for 30 years in the international 5 Star Hotel Industry. His apprenticeship began in a Michelin Star restaurant. He then went to several international deluxe hotels to fully master his trade. Later
on, he changed direction by working his way through the kitchens of notable banqueting and catering operators.

Never one to shirk a challenge Chef Armin went on to work for one of the world’s greatest fine dining caterers, Gerd Kaefer. The distinguished maestro took over the Kurhaus in Wiesbaden, Germany with a Michelin Star res­taurant. After earning a certification of master of cuisine in March 1992 in Wiesbaden, Armin became an Executive Sous Chef in the Intercontinental Hotel, Berlin, cooking for up to 4000 people at a time.

With 32 years of Sourdough culinary expertise, Armin became the youngest Executive Chef of the prestigious Hotel Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof in Frankfurt, Germany. The world class hotel boasted the Michelin Star restau­rant, Francais, which was under Armin’s supervision for four years.

Besides all this Chef Armin has also independently managed two of the top restaurants in Germany for six years. Prior to his stint in the Philippines he worked in the Middle East for 5 Star hotels in both Dubai and Doha.
When asked of his guiding principle in the kitchen, Chef Brandtner is em­phatic in saying,

“I have always believed in sharing the tricks of the trade with my team. With high beliefs that at the end of the day, we share the same philosophy, and that is to greatly please the discerning palates that we serve. I also open my kitchen doors to crazy queer ideas that make all the difference in this com­petitive world. Staying ahead is the key to haute cuisine.”

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Chef Armin Brandtner’s Avant Garde Cuisine

Back in the 90’s there was a decline in  domestic  consumption  of  wine in France, the result a dependency on an overseas market. But this new customer base didn’t have  the same complex understanding  of  wine  and  needed things made simpler for them which is understandable.

Bordeaux, with 618,000 acres of cultivated vines, 15,000 properties and 57 appellations all making great wines can at times confuse the experts. The challenge they faced was how with such complexities their wines can be more easily understood by overseas costumer.

One initiative was for five appellations with much in common to get to­gether with the idea of forming a common Côtes de Bordeaux. They were Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Franc and Premiere Côtes de Bordeaux. The idea behind the move was to promote the new title and to be more precise with regards to origin such as ‘Castil­lon: Côtes de Bordeaux Controlée’, making it easier to understand.

“Our aim is to simplify things for the consumer,” says Christophe Cha­teaux, director of The Union Cotes de Bordeaux, “These regions have a lot in common, all are located on the Right Bank and are largely Merlot­based. They are largely approachable, fruit-driven wines. Most are fam­ily owned and managed properties of 35-40acres. With better consumer recognition, they have great potential on the export market.’

As with any attempt to get a group of passionate wine makers to agree there will always be some who have a different opinion. When the time came Cotes de Bourg withdrew from the new appellation. ‘There’s no guarantee that the new AOC will be successful,” said a spokesman, “we want to keep the choice over our identity. If it works, then we will be happy to join.”

From the 2007 vintage, Bordeaux will have just 54 appellations instead of the current 57 with the inauguration of the new appellation Côtes de Bordeaux.

The Union des Côtes de Bordeaux officially inaugurated the new associa­tion on 3 July. The appellations of Graves de Vayres and Bodeaux St Foy have also applied to join, and will be included in promotional activities.

To have wines appreciated overseas it’s important to have chefs cooking dishes that match their style. For the past few years the appellation has invit­ed young American chef ’s to come to Bordeaux during the harvest not only to appreciate the wines but also to discover the wonderful local produce. As a result wines from Cotes de Bordeaux can be seen on the wine list of New York’s Bernardin and Santa Ana’s Ambrosia.

Back in Bordeaux La Tupina is the restaurant most devoted to regional cui­sine. If you can have only one meal in Bordeaux, eat it here. Owner Jean-Pierre Xiradakis grills and roasts magnificent chickens and ribs of beef over an open hearth. His foie gras, adorned only with gros sel (large grains of salt), and his potatoes fried in goose fat remind you that you’re in the south­west of France. Jean-Pierre sees a commonality between his tasty authentic food and the delicious straight forward wines from the Cotes de Bordeaux. “Some of these wines rival some grand cru classe in terms of quality but without the prohibitive price,” says Jean-Pierre. “This is important so that you can relax and enjoy the wines. With such an expensive and rare vintage I often tremble, afraid that I might spill a drop.”

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Making Bordeaux More Simple to Understand

The Antinori family can be described as the wine radicals who are driven by making the best wine they can even if it does ruf­fle a few feathers. Their story started over 100 years ago when Piero bought several vineyards in the Chianti Classico region, including 47 hectares at Tignanello.

Nonconventional wine makers, it was son Niccolo who back in 1924 dared to use Bordeaux grape varities to make his Chianti, sending a shock wave through Tuscany. He was more passionate about making the best wine and wasn’t go­ing to be bound by tradition. He continued to experiment
over the following years, with new blends, types of barrel, temperature control and bottle ageing.

When Niccolo retired in 1966, his son Piero replaced him. Piero was even more innovative. He investigated early harvesting of white grapes, differ­ent types of barrique, stainless steel vats and malolactic fermentation of red wines.

The real Tuscan revolution was in 1971 with the launch of Tignanello, a bar­rique-aged wine from the eponymous vineyard that contained Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which meant that it was ineligible for the Chianti Classico appellation. Even worse, from 1975 the blend contained no white grapes.

Technically Tignanello was not the first ‘Super Tus­can’ -that honour goes to Sassicaia, created by a relative of the Antinoris, the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, but lets not forget the Antinoris had been experimenting with Cabernet blends since the 1920s. But it was Tignanello that really shook up the Italian wine industry, leading to far-reaching changes in rules and attitudes. However, even though the Chianti Classico DOCG rules have now been changed to accommodate wines such as Tignanello, the Antinoris continue to sell it as a To­scana IGT wine.

Emboldened by the success of the 20% Bordeaux blend Tignanello, in 1978 Antinori launched the 80% Cabernet Solaia, from the neighbouring vine­yard. Winemakers who break rules to make better wines rather than comply with tradition and be forced to make an inferior wine.

The first wine we tasted was Conte delle Vipera 2005 from Umbria made primarily of the best Sauvignon Blanc grapes from Castello della Sala vineyard planted at between 650 and 1,300 feet above sea-level. To which just a touch of Chardonnay from the same vineyard, the wine from both grapes was made with alcoholic fermentation, avoiding malolactic fermentation. Their marriage produces intensely fruity aromas. In the mouth the taste is well-struc­tured and velvety with a finish that strongly reflects its aromas.

We then moved onto Bramito del Cervo 2006 made from the same vineyard but at a lower altitude of 200-400 metres above sea level. Grapes from this altitude produce a wine that in the glass is straw-yellow with golden hues. On the nose there are the distinctive fruity varietals; aromas with nice hints of vanilla and toast. In the mouth the taste has excel­lent structure, mineralogy and style.

Next to be poured was the original rebel wine Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 that dared to add 10% Cabernet Sauvignon to the 90% of Sangiovese Chianti grape. This wine is made exclusively from estate grown fruit from Santa Cris­tina, Pèppoli and Badia a Passignano estates in the Mercatale Val di Pesa zone in Chianti Classico. In the glass I discovered an intense ruby red colour. On the nose there were spicy hints of cinnamon and cloves, alongside oakey and piquant peppery aromas. In the mouth the taste is rounded, creamy, sweet and well-balanced. The aftertaste mainly expresses aromas linked to the ageing period – in­cense, balsamic hints and more spice.

Then he poured Barbaresco Prunotto 2004, a Barar­esco DOCG made with 100% Nebbiola grapes from vineyards in the areas of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive. In the glass the wine has a garnet colour with good intensity. On the nose the aromas are deep and complex with hints of liquorice. Then in the mouth the taste is full and velvety with a long finish. Due to its structure this is a wine best served slightly warm­er than other reds at 17ºC to allow the character to fully open.

Moving onto a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Pian delle Vigne 2001made with 100% Sangiovese grapes from the Pian delle Vigne estate is located six km south of Montalcino, above the Val d’Orcia. In Mon­talcino the Sangiovese grape is known as Brunello, hence the name. In the glass there is a ruby red to garnet colour. On the nose aromas are aromatic and complex, with hints of spices, cherries, blackber­ries, light tobacco and pleasant chocolate under­tones. There is a very full-bodied and broad taste in the mouth with an intense sweetness, decisive but smooth, elegant tannins and a long, persistent fin­ish.

Next, Guado al Tasso 2003, (the name means Badger’s Ford taking its name from a common sight around the vineyard ) estate-grown single-vineyard Bolgheri DOC Superiore. The wine is a blend of 60% Caber-net Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Syrah, all non-na­tive Italian grapes but grown because they make a great wine. There is an extraordinary, intense ruby red in colour in the glass. On the nose the aromas are fruity, more of cherry than cassis, with hints of toast, coffee and dark chocolate. In the mouth the taste is finely structured and complex; balanced, with soft tannins and a lingering finish.

Finally, with dessert we enjoyed Moscato D’asti 2007 DOCG made with 100 % White Canelli Moscato grapes from selected vineyards in the Canelli and Treiso area. In the glass there is an intense pale yel­low in colour. On the nose we discover typical Mo­scato characteristics with hints of acacia honey and hawthorn. On the palate the taste is full, dense, vig­orous and elegant with a pleasant, harmonious and fresh finish.

Antinori is imported by
Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd, 41 Anuwong Road, Bangkok 10100.
Tel 0-2224-8045, Fax 0-2224-8042, E-mail vanich@vanichwathana.com

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Antinori: The Tuscan Radicals