Traversing the Orient’s wine guru, Laurence Civil, guzzles the grape and lets us in on the mysteries of the Orient.

Grace Vineyard is located at an altitude of 870-950 meters above sea level in Taigu County, 40km south of the provincial capital of Tai Yuan. It enjoy s a continental climate with minimal rainfall; having sunny days with temperatures reaching as high as 40ºC and falling to 20ºC at night which is ideal for wine making. With help from Denis Bolas, detailed research was done to find the areas with the right soil. On 28^th August 1997 CK Chan and Sylvian Janvier laid the foundations for the Grace Vineyards.

The original estate included a winery surrounded by 150 hectares of vineyards planted with 11 varieties of imported French vines to see which would grow in the different plots. After a couple of years of trials it was decided to downsize the estate to 68.5 hectares. Today it has expanded to 200 hectares with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, 6% Chardonnay and small portions of Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Marsane vines. These three vines collectively account for 5% of total land under vine. To ensure the quality of the fruit the vines are trimmed to yield six tons per hectare.

Great attention to details is taken in all stages of production and visiting overseas winemakers work with the management to refine the winemaking procedure. After four years of methodical cultivation the first harvest came in 2001.

CK Chan had the sense to realize that for a family winery to produce quality wine will be an arduous process requiring a generation of effort and devotion. He therefore recruited his daughter Judy, persuading her to quit her job with Goldman Sachs in Hong Kong to take over the vineyard operations and become President of Grace Vineyards this year.

The first of their wines I tasted was from their Vineyard Series’ that are wines using grapes from the most recent harvest, often serves as an introductory step to our vintage. It can be matched with a variety of foods, and is a very good choice as a daily wine. The ‘Vineyard Series’ have become a popular choice of table wine among many five star hotels and top restaurants throughout Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong.

The Vineyard Rose 2008 is made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit.  In the glass it has a brilliant pale magenta; on the nose fresh berry fruits with floral highlights and; in the mouth it’s round and soft with well balanced acidity for freshness. The flavour is long, mouth filling and dry.

I then tasted three wines from their Premium Series that are single grape variety wine as well as blended wine. Primarily made using fruits from the most recent harvest, these wines are cellared for up to 10 months in Reserve Series old barrels.

The Premium Chenin Blanc 2008 was great. In the glass it is very pale with green tinges, typical of a cool climate wine. On the nose there is an aroma of apple blossom with a touch of tropical fruit to add complexity.  When young these wines are tightly structured and develop into excellent complex examples of the style with several years of bottle age.

On with the Premium Chardonnay 2008 – in the glass the colour is between light straw to gold; on the nose melon and peach dominate and in the mouth one discovers a full flavoured wine with just a hint of oak and cream. This wine will mature more quickly than past Grace Vineyard Chardonnays.

The third was Premium Cabernet Merlot, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot. In the glass the wine has a brick red; on the nose aromas of sweet fruits with toasty notes and; in the mouth light to medium bodied red with good acidity and sweet notes.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Amazing Grace of Chinese Wine

In a recent conversation with Steve Reader – Win­emaker for SIMI in California – I learnt that in the US 90% of wine is drunk within two days of purchase. It strikes me as an alarming statistic that goes to prove that the overwhelming trend is to purchase wine on an as needed basis – much in the way we purchase a hamburger and coke.

Wine is a consumer item bought as part of the weekly groceries. Our choices are determined by the food we plan to prepare in the coming week and see­ing as most of us store wine in the refridgerator space is generaly limited.

The idea of laying down wines for future generations is a grandiose concept
requiring serious cash investment on which we aren’t looking for a quick return. Few and far between are those lucky enough to have a rich grandfa­ther or an eccentric uncle who laid down a few cases dated the year we were born.

If the vintage of our birth was outstanding there would be an indulgent pleasure in sharing that wine with friends. However, if the vintage were dis­appointing would that be a bad reflection on us? Would we be prepared to do the same for our grandchildren and would they thank us when the time came to drink their wines.

Cellaring or simply storing wines correctly, whether it’s for two days or two decades is essential to preserve wines in their best condition. Most quality wines with high tannins improve with age and develop greater complexity. But how many of us have the suitable accommodation to store cases of wine for 20 years – and for that matter how many of us can be bothered. For most of us the favored option is to allow someone else to take on that responsibility.

Tannins are the key factor winemakers consider when making a wine for aging as they are the element that lends structure. The grapes with the best tannins are primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo and Shiraz. If red wines are to be drunk younger they will require less tannins. This in turn leads to a change in the way wines are made and a shift in the grapes used. Is a young cabernet as attractive as young merlot or pinot noir? Would a light style of Bordeaux be as attractive as the heavy clarets to which we are more accustomed?

If the drink young trend becomes established it strengthens the argument for screw caps as corks only come into their own with wines that are stored for five years or longer. Also, today wine isn’t just drunk at the table but at picnics, concerts and sports events.

At some festivals glasses are banned. This has led to wine being packaged in cans and paper cartons, causing purists to faint at the thought of such sac­rilege – but why? Guy Anderson Wines launched its CanCan canned wine brand at the recent London Wine Fair. Included in the canned wines are sau­vignon blanc, a rosé pinot grigio and a sparkling prosecco targeting female wine drinkers who might want to pack their wine along with their asparins when heading out for events such as music festivals.

We drink beer and soft drinks from bottles and cans. Surely, if canned wine doesn’t compromise the taste and allows people to carry their favorite tip­ple to music events and the such then where’s the harm? The younger wine drinker is looking for wine options which are practical and which can de­liver – snobbism be dammed.

This trend won’t wipe out great quality, aging wines. It will merely broaden accesibility, streamlining those who truly appreciate the type of fine wine whose quality and value increase with time.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Wine Consumption in the 21st Century

Port,  a  fortified wine  from Portugal’s Douro Valley  takes  its  name from the city of Oporto that is situated  at  the mouth  of Rio Douro or River of Gold. Although many port-style wines are made around the world – most notably Australia, South Africa and the United States – the strict usage of the terms Port or  Porto  refer  only  to wines  produced in Portugal.

In 1756 the Douro Valley was probably the world’s first officially Port, a fortified wine from Portu-demarcated wine region. It is no doubt the world’s most diffi­cult wine growing region. It is a region that covers over 618,000 gal’s Douro Valley takes its name acres, 10 to 12% of which is used to cultivate vine planted on the from the city of Oporto that is sit-harsh, rugged mountains that rise up from the Douro River and its tributaries. The best grapes are grown at the lower elevations, uated at the mouth of Rio Douro there is a local saying that the best port comes from the grapes that can hear the river flowing.

“Today I would like you to try four of our ports,” says Jorge. “I don’t like serving Port in a sherry glass as the flavours and aromas are corseted, I prefer a simple white the world – most notably Australia, wine glass to optimize the taste experience, not a red wine glass as that releases too much alcohol. I also like to serve them just below European room temperature (18­South Africa and the United States 20ºC) in general as at this point the taste is perfectly structured, any warmer and the brandy in the port becomes too dominant and spoils the taste experience.

“I would like you to start with our Fine Ruby Port that is full-bodied with youthful freshness and an attractive, luscious fruit. You will notice that in the glass the wine is very deep-coloured, on the nose it’s intensely aromatic, bottled young to retain the assertiveness of the fruit, black cherry with a balanced intense finish. Ruby is an everyday Port, suitable for enjoying anytime. I like to pair this with young Italian Parmesan, Gorgonzola, French Brie, dried fruits and nuts.

“Next I would like you to try our 2001 Late Bottle Vintage (LBV), which like a Vintage Port is a wine of a single year but it’s not ‘declared’ Vintage Port. The difference between Vintage and LBV is that vintage spends only two years in casks and is bottle matured, whereas LBV is aged in casks and is bottled with light filtration at between four to six years. By the time LBV is bottled it’s already matured and ready to drink without the need for decant­ing.” He paired it with an Earl Grey brullee, the idea of which seemed odd but works surprisingly well.

For my third port experience Jorge poured “The Tawny”, a special premium blend of ‘lotes’ of wine aged for seven to nine years in seasoned (previously used) wooden cask. This wine is the ultimate example of the art of the win­emaker, who has carefully selected different wines that his experience tells him will compliment each other when blended together.

“In this wine,” he continues, “you will discover a fine balance of mellowed fruit and nuttiness, due to extended cask aging and from where it gets a characteristic warm amber tone. A rich and complex wine that has a soft aroma of toasted almonds and a hint of orange peel and spice, full and gen­erous, enticing flavors with a long decadent finish. May I suggest you try it with milk chocolate.” I was surprised at the pairing, chocolate not cheese, but having tasted his recommendation he was right.

To conclude my Port class, the 1996 Malvedos Vintage Port made from grapes of the Qinta dos Maledos, south facing and rated the finest vine­yards in the Alto Douro. The wine was matured in seasoned oak casks for 24 months before being bottled without filtration or fining to retain the purety of the taste. In the glass there is a dark and intense colour; on the nose a lus­cious ripeness with intense youthful aromas of red fruit with a hint of mint and eucalyptus. On the palate I discovered rich full bodied flavors that were packed with layers of fruit and firm tannins that hold together to create a long, sweet finish.

Vintage Port, due to the nature of how it was made has sediment and needs to be decanted not because it looks posh but for the sake of the taste. Take the bottle from the wine rack and place it upright for a couple of hours then very slowly decant, taking care to keep any sediment in the bottle.

“This goes well with salty cheeses such as Gorgonzola or some Italian Sa­lami,” Jorge concludes. “If the Port is still young it also will pair nicely with dark bitter chocolate.”

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Pleasure of Port

Back in the 90’s there was a decline in  domestic  consumption  of  wine in France, the result a dependency on an overseas market. But this new customer base didn’t have  the same complex understanding  of  wine  and  needed things made simpler for them which is understandable.

Bordeaux, with 618,000 acres of cultivated vines, 15,000 properties and 57 appellations all making great wines can at times confuse the experts. The challenge they faced was how with such complexities their wines can be more easily understood by overseas costumer.

One initiative was for five appellations with much in common to get to­gether with the idea of forming a common Côtes de Bordeaux. They were Côtes de Bourg, Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Franc and Premiere Côtes de Bordeaux. The idea behind the move was to promote the new title and to be more precise with regards to origin such as ‘Castil­lon: Côtes de Bordeaux Controlée’, making it easier to understand.

“Our aim is to simplify things for the consumer,” says Christophe Cha­teaux, director of The Union Cotes de Bordeaux, “These regions have a lot in common, all are located on the Right Bank and are largely Merlot­based. They are largely approachable, fruit-driven wines. Most are fam­ily owned and managed properties of 35-40acres. With better consumer recognition, they have great potential on the export market.’

As with any attempt to get a group of passionate wine makers to agree there will always be some who have a different opinion. When the time came Cotes de Bourg withdrew from the new appellation. ‘There’s no guarantee that the new AOC will be successful,” said a spokesman, “we want to keep the choice over our identity. If it works, then we will be happy to join.”

From the 2007 vintage, Bordeaux will have just 54 appellations instead of the current 57 with the inauguration of the new appellation Côtes de Bordeaux.

The Union des Côtes de Bordeaux officially inaugurated the new associa­tion on 3 July. The appellations of Graves de Vayres and Bodeaux St Foy have also applied to join, and will be included in promotional activities.

To have wines appreciated overseas it’s important to have chefs cooking dishes that match their style. For the past few years the appellation has invit­ed young American chef ’s to come to Bordeaux during the harvest not only to appreciate the wines but also to discover the wonderful local produce. As a result wines from Cotes de Bordeaux can be seen on the wine list of New York’s Bernardin and Santa Ana’s Ambrosia.

Back in Bordeaux La Tupina is the restaurant most devoted to regional cui­sine. If you can have only one meal in Bordeaux, eat it here. Owner Jean-Pierre Xiradakis grills and roasts magnificent chickens and ribs of beef over an open hearth. His foie gras, adorned only with gros sel (large grains of salt), and his potatoes fried in goose fat remind you that you’re in the south­west of France. Jean-Pierre sees a commonality between his tasty authentic food and the delicious straight forward wines from the Cotes de Bordeaux. “Some of these wines rival some grand cru classe in terms of quality but without the prohibitive price,” says Jean-Pierre. “This is important so that you can relax and enjoy the wines. With such an expensive and rare vintage I often tremble, afraid that I might spill a drop.”

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Making Bordeaux More Simple to Understand

The Antinori family can be described as the wine radicals who are driven by making the best wine they can even if it does ruf­fle a few feathers. Their story started over 100 years ago when Piero bought several vineyards in the Chianti Classico region, including 47 hectares at Tignanello.

Nonconventional wine makers, it was son Niccolo who back in 1924 dared to use Bordeaux grape varities to make his Chianti, sending a shock wave through Tuscany. He was more passionate about making the best wine and wasn’t go­ing to be bound by tradition. He continued to experiment
over the following years, with new blends, types of barrel, temperature control and bottle ageing.

When Niccolo retired in 1966, his son Piero replaced him. Piero was even more innovative. He investigated early harvesting of white grapes, differ­ent types of barrique, stainless steel vats and malolactic fermentation of red wines.

The real Tuscan revolution was in 1971 with the launch of Tignanello, a bar­rique-aged wine from the eponymous vineyard that contained Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which meant that it was ineligible for the Chianti Classico appellation. Even worse, from 1975 the blend contained no white grapes.

Technically Tignanello was not the first ‘Super Tus­can’ -that honour goes to Sassicaia, created by a relative of the Antinoris, the Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, but lets not forget the Antinoris had been experimenting with Cabernet blends since the 1920s. But it was Tignanello that really shook up the Italian wine industry, leading to far-reaching changes in rules and attitudes. However, even though the Chianti Classico DOCG rules have now been changed to accommodate wines such as Tignanello, the Antinoris continue to sell it as a To­scana IGT wine.

Emboldened by the success of the 20% Bordeaux blend Tignanello, in 1978 Antinori launched the 80% Cabernet Solaia, from the neighbouring vine­yard. Winemakers who break rules to make better wines rather than comply with tradition and be forced to make an inferior wine.

The first wine we tasted was Conte delle Vipera 2005 from Umbria made primarily of the best Sauvignon Blanc grapes from Castello della Sala vineyard planted at between 650 and 1,300 feet above sea-level. To which just a touch of Chardonnay from the same vineyard, the wine from both grapes was made with alcoholic fermentation, avoiding malolactic fermentation. Their marriage produces intensely fruity aromas. In the mouth the taste is well-struc­tured and velvety with a finish that strongly reflects its aromas.

We then moved onto Bramito del Cervo 2006 made from the same vineyard but at a lower altitude of 200-400 metres above sea level. Grapes from this altitude produce a wine that in the glass is straw-yellow with golden hues. On the nose there are the distinctive fruity varietals; aromas with nice hints of vanilla and toast. In the mouth the taste has excel­lent structure, mineralogy and style.

Next to be poured was the original rebel wine Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 that dared to add 10% Cabernet Sauvignon to the 90% of Sangiovese Chianti grape. This wine is made exclusively from estate grown fruit from Santa Cris­tina, Pèppoli and Badia a Passignano estates in the Mercatale Val di Pesa zone in Chianti Classico. In the glass I discovered an intense ruby red colour. On the nose there were spicy hints of cinnamon and cloves, alongside oakey and piquant peppery aromas. In the mouth the taste is rounded, creamy, sweet and well-balanced. The aftertaste mainly expresses aromas linked to the ageing period – in­cense, balsamic hints and more spice.

Then he poured Barbaresco Prunotto 2004, a Barar­esco DOCG made with 100% Nebbiola grapes from vineyards in the areas of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive. In the glass the wine has a garnet colour with good intensity. On the nose the aromas are deep and complex with hints of liquorice. Then in the mouth the taste is full and velvety with a long finish. Due to its structure this is a wine best served slightly warm­er than other reds at 17ºC to allow the character to fully open.

Moving onto a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Pian delle Vigne 2001made with 100% Sangiovese grapes from the Pian delle Vigne estate is located six km south of Montalcino, above the Val d’Orcia. In Mon­talcino the Sangiovese grape is known as Brunello, hence the name. In the glass there is a ruby red to garnet colour. On the nose aromas are aromatic and complex, with hints of spices, cherries, blackber­ries, light tobacco and pleasant chocolate under­tones. There is a very full-bodied and broad taste in the mouth with an intense sweetness, decisive but smooth, elegant tannins and a long, persistent fin­ish.

Next, Guado al Tasso 2003, (the name means Badger’s Ford taking its name from a common sight around the vineyard ) estate-grown single-vineyard Bolgheri DOC Superiore. The wine is a blend of 60% Caber-net Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Syrah, all non-na­tive Italian grapes but grown because they make a great wine. There is an extraordinary, intense ruby red in colour in the glass. On the nose the aromas are fruity, more of cherry than cassis, with hints of toast, coffee and dark chocolate. In the mouth the taste is finely structured and complex; balanced, with soft tannins and a lingering finish.

Finally, with dessert we enjoyed Moscato D’asti 2007 DOCG made with 100 % White Canelli Moscato grapes from selected vineyards in the Canelli and Treiso area. In the glass there is an intense pale yel­low in colour. On the nose we discover typical Mo­scato characteristics with hints of acacia honey and hawthorn. On the palate the taste is full, dense, vig­orous and elegant with a pleasant, harmonious and fresh finish.

Antinori is imported by
Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd, 41 Anuwong Road, Bangkok 10100.
Tel 0-2224-8045, Fax 0-2224-8042, E-mail vanich@vanichwathana.com

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Antinori: The Tuscan Radicals

The site is in an isolated location with a pristine natural environment, they took the approach of minimal intervention, focusing on quality rather than quantity intentionally keeping the yields low.

To protect the wines from damage by strong winds in the budding season they planted trees and cereal rye to act as a further windbreak.

Realizing that hungry birds like to eat grapes large plots of sunflowers were sown at strategic intervals to provide parrots with a food they
would prefer while silvereyes could dine on the trees. Working with the environment and through skilled vineyard management, Leeuwin has been able to pro­duce fine fruit in a practical, environmentally friendly manner.

Leeuwin Estate is one of the most modern wineries in the Southern hemisphere, offering its winemakers all the advantages of new age technology. Winemaking is an art as well as a sci­ence, and it is here where the skills of the winemaker are carefully combined with technology to produce the best possible wines. In general, they follow European winemaking techniques, concentrating on achieving complexity, balance and longevity in their wines through a blend of modern and traditional methods.

This is achieved through temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, two Bucher Pneumatic presses, and the use of French oak barrels to give the right style and character to their wines.

Their wines are released under three la­bels, the “Art Series”, “Prelude Vineyards” and “Siblings”. Each has its own lifestyle but collectively they have made a sig­nificant contribution to the reputation of Australian wine.

The “Art Series” is their most prestig­ious, wines of quality with the pedigree for aging. Each vintage is identified by a painting on its label commissioned from leading contemporary Australian artists. Australia doesn’t have a Grand Cru clas­sification for its wine, but if it did this is what it would be.

The first painting commissioned was of Caves Road by Robert Juniper for the 1980 Art Series Chardonnay. John Olsen was approached to paint the first artwork to be used on the Art Series Riesling. His response to the idea was to paint four works entitled “Frogs in Riesling”. They only needed one for that years vintage but found these paintings were so irresistible that the decision was made to purchase all four and continue these labels on all fu­ture Riesling vintages.

Not everyone bought into the idea im­mediately. When Sir Sidney Nolan was approached at the beginning of the series, he advised them that he was not a graphic artist and did not paint for wine labels. Knowing that he was also a red wine buff, they sent him two unlabelled bottles of the 1982 Ca­bernet Sauvignon – one of Leeuwin’s best vintages to see if the taste of the wines could change his mind. They did and he responded that in return for the two bottles of wine he would happily provide a painting and  his Dolphin Rock appearing on the label.

Today with so many high caliber artists having already had their work appear on the labels, it is no longer a challenge convincing leading artists to be part of this collection. The Leeuwin Estate Art Gallery already house some 100 pieces and as the collection builds, it is hoped to tour it in its own right.

While the “Art Series” has an intellectually superior quality for the discerning connoisseur most people are looking for a wine to drink soon after they have bought it. So “Prelude Vineyards” wines are made from fruit producing the most readily expressive wines that are ready to drink soon after release. A Chardonnay and a Cabernet Merlot are released under this label.

Hand fruit selection is key to their winemaking as the winemakers have found that certain blocks, and even certain rows in particular blocks, tend to consistently produce fruit best suited to either of the two styles of Cabernet and Chardonnay they make.

The “Siblings” label represents wines intended for fresh early drinking.

And now for music

The Leeuwin Concerts started in 1985 when the company gave financial support for The London Philharmonic Orchestra’s tour of Australia. As a way of saying thank you the Orchestra came and performed in this unique vineyard setting. In the intervening 24 years they have been followed by the likes of Ray Charles, Diana Ross, George Benson, Sting and Simply Red.

From an orchestra from London who came to ‘play for their supper’ it has grown to be a highlight in Australia’s social and cultural calendar. Guest come dressed in anything from top hats to t-shirts, they come to picnic on the sprawling winery lawns, whilst enjoying the music of the industry’s greatest performers.

Gradually, the crowd begins to hush in anticipation of the night’s show, as the sun sets over a majestic backdrop of misty karri forest. Suddenly, as the music fills the natural amphitheatre, Leeuwin’s famous kookaburras burst into a raucous cackling chorus – much to the amusement of guests and the delight of startled entertainers.

Some 1800 Corporate Guests, invited by many of the country’s leading busi­nesses, enjoy a sit-down black tie dinner by gourmet caterers while being en­tertained by musicians and dancers. Meanwhile, other guests enjoy the live post concert entertainment as they continue to picnic in the main arena. A Festival of fine wine, food, and music; truly all nights to remember, isn’t that what wine was really meant for, to be enjoyed however you want to do it.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Wine, Art and Music

Q Shop is an independent wine retailer carry­ing a carefully selected range of old and new world wines in the comfortable price range of 500-2,000 baht. They recently opened two branches in Bangkok to cater for the needs of a clearly identified focus group keen to gain more knowledge of wine.

They selected two areas to launch their shops; the first in Ekkamai as an estab­lished up market residential area; the second in Ladkrabang, an emerging resi­dential area adjacent to Suvarnabhumi International Airport. They will pro­mote their wines through a series of personally invited, small exclusive wine tastings where the customers can learn more about the wines.

Wines to be found at Q Shop
Carpineto
Carpineto was founded in 1967 by acclaimed winemakers Giovanni C. Sacchet and Anto­nio M. Zaccheo. Their original goal was to produce a world class Chianti Classico, a radical change from the way most Chianti was being made at this time. Using modern viticulture and winemaking techniques they untapped the potential of the Tuscan landscape to produce truly great wines with bottle aging potential. They age their “riserva” wines for a total of six to twelve months longer than the minimum time required by DOCG appellation rules. As a result of their new approach to wine making in Tuscany there are now producing some of the regions DOCG appellations to varietal specific wines of great structure as well as innovative proprietary blends. Approximately 96% of Carpineto’s wine production is red wine, with the majority being “riserva” wines that are aged three or more years before their release date.

Chianti Classico Riserva
Their Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG is a blend of a minimum 80% Sangio­vesse and a maximum of 20% of Canaiolo from the olive and cypress-stud­ded countryside between Florence and Siena. The wine is aged in medium sized Slovenian and French barrels for a minimum of one year then trans­ferred to steel tanks before bottling. In the glass I noticed an intense ruby red colour with garnet reflections; on the nose the aromas are elegant, full and harmonious with a hint of vanilla and raspberry; finally in the mouth the taste is long and velvety, full generous and warm.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, D.O.C.G is a blend of a minimum of 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile) and a maximum of 30% of Canaiolo, Merlot and other authorized grape varietals. The vineyards are situated on South South-East slopes with excellent sun exposure above the Renaissance town of Montepulciano. The majority of the wine is aged for two years in large 5,500 liter Slovenian oval oak barrels, with a small part in French oak barrels. In the glass I discovered a brilliant ruby red with a tendency to gar­net; on the nose the aromas are extraordinarily elegant with hints of violets and wood; finally in the mouth the taste is dry harmonic, fruity and velvety, with an elegant texture and a long finish. I would recommend this wine with aged cheeses and game, especially wild boar.

Almos
Catena Zapata is located in Mendoza Argentina and has many unique mi­croclimates. Since 2001 they have adopted a new winemaking philosophy of blending the different microclimates and with the exception of Catena Alta Chardonnay and labeling them as the Mendoza appellation. Their reasoning is – as in Bordeaux – the art of assemblage produces a more delicious tasting wine than from a single vineyard.

Almos is the second label of Bodega Catena Zapata and was launched in 1993. The fruit used in these wines are sourced from some of the Catena family’s younger vineyards in the best areas of Mendoza’s high altitude wine country. Yields are kept low and all their vineyards are hand harvested.

Their Almos Malbec 2005 has been aged for nine months in 50% French and 50% American Oak, of which 25% are new barrels. In the glass the wine has a dark purple color with violet highlights. On the the nose I discovered bright black cherry aromas with light floral notes and a touch of toast. The mouth feel is full and rich, with ripe, concentrated cassis and black raspberry fruit flavors interwoven with a touch of chocolate and sweet spice from light oak aging. This finish is long and lingering, with ripe, velvety tannins.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Q Shop

Jean-Michel Cazes is a French winemaker of worldly distinction, described as “the new Baron of Bordeaux.” Until 2000 he man­aged the wine holdings of AXA Millésimes as well as the Cazes family estates which he relin­quished in 2006. He is the son of André Cazes and grandson of Jean-Charles Cazes who acquired the family’s initial holdings.

In 1974 he took over management of Château Lynch-Bages. Other properties include Château Les Ormes-de-Pez, Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac converted into a hotel and a restaurant of two Michelin stars, L’Ostal Cazes in Languedoc, Domaine des Sénéchaux in Châteauneuf­du-Pape, Xisto in Portugal and Tapanappa in Coonawar­ra, Australia.

Having concluded salutations we start with a Chateau Villa Bel-Air Graves 2003. “Villa Bel-Air is found close to La Brède in the village of Saint-Mo­rillon in the heart of the Graves appellation” explains Jen-Michel who bought the property and restructured the vineyards in 1988. “The property is perched on a magnificent gravel brow overlooking the Gatmor Valley. The soil is composed of Garonne gravel and lies on a subsoil base of clay-lime­stone, partly ferruginous.

“Here we have a 50 hectare vineyard that covers one uninterrupted area,” he says. “The Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on the warm gravel of the plateau, while the Merlot, Sauvignon and Semillon are planted on slopes that offer freshness. The terroir of this property also benefits from an advantageous micro-climate that is ideal for winemaking. The surrounding pine forests protect it from bad weather and the proximity of the Gar­onne

River mitigates both extreme heat and excess humid­ity.” The wine is an extremely elegant blend of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon. Its floral nose releases notes of citrus fruits (lemon, grapefruit) and tropical fruits (mango, pineapple). The first impression on the palate is supple and round with a nice buttery, oaky and vanilla finish. The tech­nique of stirring the lees brings out structure, volume, fat­ness and roundness.

The next wine Jean-Michel pours is Xisto; a wine from Portugal’s Douro Valle made in cooperation with his long-standing good friend Jorge Roquette, owner of the highly acclaimed Quinto do Crasto estate.

“In the vineyards of the Upper Douro we blend the tradi­tional grape varieties of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. The cooler summer nights, characteristic of the Upper Douro region, facilitate and enhance the aromatic qualities of the resulting wine. These vineyards are regularly monitored by Tomas Roquette and Daniel Llose – my chief winemaker.”

The wine has a smooth, modern air to it, along with an extra-sweet, exuberant fruity note that pops up as the oak peels away and the fruit asserts itself. It dominates the finish, and then develops character with more aeration.

Next,  we  move  on  to  one  of  his  wines  from  Languedoc region  L’Ostal  Cazes, La Liviniere,  Minervois  2003. “For years  I have meandered  hrough  the  roads of Languedoc,” he says. “Attracted to the ‘patchwork quilt’ of legendary terroirs which underpins the region I discovered La Livinière, a village  at  the  foot  of the Montagne Noire,  birthplace  of the greatest vineyards in Minervois. In 2002 I bought two adjacent properties, creating an estate of 150 hectares, consisting of 50 hectares of vines and 25 hectares of olive trees. Together with my son Jean-Charles, we chose the name L’Ostal Cazes, a reference to the house and the family group living there.”

The wine is a blend of 65% Syrah, 13% Carignan, 12% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre which is aged in French oak for 15 months. Powerful and feshy; this wine represents a  clear  refection of  the  terrioir.  In  the glass, a deep ruby colour; on the nose a silky texture and a spicy and explosive aroma, with scents of garrigue scrubland, ripe black fruit and morello cherry. Ten in the mouth there  is great  richness,  fatty,  ripe  fruit and creaminess that envelops elegant and distinguished tannins. A wine that can be drunk young due to the generosity of its fruit but  lef  to age  the richness and elegance of  its  tannins becomes more expressive.

Finally, we taste a glass of Chateau Lynch-Bages, a classifed ffh growth from Pauillac. “For three quarters of a century the property was owned by the Lynch family, descendents of the Irishman John Lynch. The property was  bought  by my  grandfather  Jean-Charles  in  1934 who, with my father Andre devoted all of his energy to the estate for more than 35 years. I took over the property in 1974 and set about restructuring and managing the estate. In 2006 I handed over the day to day running of the estate to my son Jean-Charles.

“The 90 hectare estate is just outside the town of Pauillac, overlooking the Gironde estuary,” he explains. “The well-drained  soil  is mostly Garonne  gravel with  solid but fairly disjointed subsoil that enables the roots of the old wines to grow to a depth of six to eight metres, with an average age of about 30 to 35 years producing small quality berries.

“The wine  is a blend of 73 % Cabernet-Sauvignon, 15 % Merlot, 10 % Cabernet-Franc, and 2 % Petit-Verdot, aged in French oak barrels, 70 % of which are renewed each year. Tey are well known for their complexity, and combine elegance with a powerful structure. Their suppleness allows  them  to be drunk afer a  few years, but they will also age well over the years.”

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Wines of Jean Michel Cazes

Wines from South Eastern Australia are generally sourced from a wide area to ensure that their constancy isn’t compromised by local climatic variations. They represent good value  for money  and  are  every day drinking wines where  constancy  and quality  are more important than regional or varietal characteristics as is demonstrated in the Synergy label.

The Chardonnay 2007 in the glass has a brilliant, crystalline yellow colo
a perfect warm weather wine. Their sparkling is made from a blend of gra
eties. In the glass it has a delicate pale gold colour with medium beading
nose I discovered an appealing bouquet of green apple characters with hint of bready complexity, typical of wines made methode champagnois mouth the taste is lively and refreshing, displaying flavors of lemon zest and nectarines. is the quintessential Australian Red grape. Their 2006 typical of Shiraz, exhibits delicio blackberries on the nose and palate combined with subtle cinnamon like spice and a of carefully managed oak, giving hint of cedar and coffee, a beautiful wine.

Chile is an excellent source of value for money and they are buying from two wineries in the Central Valley Batalcura and Corinto. Batalcura is the result of the passion fo wine of two men; Chilean businessman Juan Fernando Waidele and French winemaker Philippe Debrus who met in 2002 and made their first wine together in the Maule Valley in 2002 in the small village of Botalcura, three hours drive south of the capita Santiago.

Their wines are a balance of wood and fruit and explore the world of blended wines and creative matches. Their Chardonnay/Voigner blend is a medium-pale yellow colour in the glass with yellow highlights. The aromas on the nose are reminiscent of whit tree fruits such as apricot, peach, and pear interwoven with notes of grapefruit and tangerine. In the mouth I detected a balance of toast and vanilla; the result of 30% o the wine having spent six months in a mix of one and two year barrels of which 60% are French and 40% American oak. Their Sauvignon Blanc 2007 has a bright to pale yellow colour with pale yellow hues. On the nose the aromas are powerful and elegan evoking memories of white peaches and pears, as well as herbal notes and lavender. In the mouth I discovered a subtle balance of acidity and tannins.

Moving onto their reds, first I tasted a blend of the indigenous Chilean grape Carmen with merlot. In the glass the wine has an intense ruby red colour, with purple high­lights. On the nose I discovered intense fruity aromas of plum and cherry, tobacco leather, olive leaves and pine, with a discreet undertone of wood. The wine is given th same barrel aging as Chardonnay/Voignier. While the Syrah with the Chilean Malbe produces a medium-deep ruby red colour with dark cherry highlights. On the nos the aromas are complex and alluring with elements of ripe blackberry, black cherry violets, black pepper and nutmeg. In the mouth the taste is flinty with rich toasted oa and vanilla.

Corinto is their other Chilean wine supplier, the design of whose label is an expression of the emotion looking down into the glass at the moment ones taste senses are awoken by the wine. Teir aim is to make a fun, cheerful and innovative New World wine that’s easy to drink.

The Corinto Chardonnay 2007 exudes a semi-intense, yellowish-gold colour in the glass. I discovered nice white fruit aromas of white peach and pineapple on the nose.  It’s nicely balanced on the palate, well-rounded and fruity with  a  succulent finish  in  the mouth. While  in  the  glass  their  Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is light yellow with transparent nuances. On the nose I discovered intense aromas of citrus and white fruit with herbaceous notes. Then, in the mouth  the wine  is  attractively  crisp  on  the palate, with citrus and grapefruit accompanying its vibrant finish.

Moving  from  the  New  World to  the  Old  world  where  they are  buying  wines  of  Chevalier Alexis  Lichine  from  the  con-servative  Bordeaux,  and  the progressive  Langudoc  Rousillion. The  late  Alexis  Lichine, born in Moscow, was a prominent wine writer and entrepreneur who played a key role  in promoting  varietal  labelling in  France,  where  the  preference was frst terrior and then to blend  the  fruit  it produced. The wines  that bear his wines are now made by his son Sasha. His Bordeaux 2006, a blend of Merlot,  Cabernet  Sauvignon and  Cabernet  Franc  result  in a  wine  that’s  deep  ruby  red in  colour.  On  the  nose  it’s fne  and  elegant  with  fruity  a n d spicy notes. In the mouth I discovered a harmonious wine with velvety tannins. While with  the pure Merlot 2006  the wine has  a  similar, deep  ruby colour. On the nose there are notes of ripe red fruit, raspberries and strawberries. On in the mouth, typical of merlot, there are smooth tannins to the pallet with hints of berries.

Wine makers in Languedoc Rousillion prefer to make a wine that has to be
classifed Vins du Pays rather  than  the more prestigious Appellation Con-
trolle, simply so that they can put the varietal on the label. Sasha’s Cabernet
Sauvignon  from  this  region  is  a  very  intense,  almost black,  garnet  red  to purple in the glass. On the nose I discovered aromas of red fruit, blackcur-
rants, with notes of spices.   Ten,  in the mouth the wine has a fne tannic
body, note of  liquorice and  length of taste. The Merlot 2007  is dark red  in
the glass. On the nose there are aromas of red fruit, blackcurrants, cherries,
raspberries  and  jams with  velvet  tannins. Ten,  in  the mouth  the  taste  is
silky smooth with a balanced finish.

It was a pleasure  to  taste honest afordable wines  that have been made  to
drink and be enjoyed now.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Fun, Easy Drinking and Affordable

India  is currently  the most productive wine producing country in South and Southeast Asia. They started  making  sparkling  Indian wines for exports only in 1982 when they were known as  Champagne Vineyards. Being new to the wine business they needed advise on how to grow grapes and obtained technical collaboration from Champagne Technology of France. Champagne Indage was established in 1985 and became a listed public company two  years later in 1987. Teir role was  to produce and sell wines  to India’s emerging domestic wine consumers; within the group they  had  hotel  and  engineering  interests. The following year they launched their fagship sparkling wine “Marquise de Pompadour”.

In January 1997 the hotels and engineering side of the company were hived
of as  they  saw  the potential  to develop and expand a previously non-existent domestic wine market. Today the company has a 75% market share in  the premium  red and white wine markets and a virtual monopoly  in  the sparkling sector, where  their  interest  in  producing wines began.

The Indage Vineyards

The area they chose to plant grapes was on an unsuspecting piece of land in the sleepy hamlet  of Narayanaon  on  the  outskirts  of  Pune, 160 km’s southeast of Mumbai. Due to its lime rich  and  chalky  soil  combined  with  a  controlled microclimate  it was  seen  as  ideal  for cultivating grapes free from diseases to make extremely high quality wines.

Today  there  are mile  after mile  of  sprawling vineyards covering   some 2,500 hectares with 20 diferent grape varieties, both  international  and  domestic  grown  for  wine  production  and  137  in experimental  lots. They  are  located  on  the  19th northern  parallel  in  a  in a valley of the western ghats set at an altitude of 700-800 metres above sea level where they have an annual rain fall of 500-700mm. The vineyards are located near to the Kukadi Dam project, one of the largest irrigation grids in the state of Maharashta. Tey are situated on the Pune Nashik highway, 87 kms from Pune travelling in the direction of Nashik. Te vineyards enjoy a tropical climate and have two growing periods. Generally speaking there are three seasons; summer temperature can go as high as 39ºc at noon and their lowest is 7ºc at night in winter; the purely vegetative period is March/April to July/August;  a  productive  cycle with  heavy  pruning  in  September  and October. The grapes are harvested in February and March.

Wine Making Facilities

The company has a state-of-the-art technology manufacturing facility with
the  largest wine production  facility  in  India, with a capacity of 15 million
liters at Narayangaon and a bottling capacity of 15, 000 bottles per hour and
multiple manufacturing facilities across India, which ensures minimal lead
time and consistency in supplies across India. Champagne Indage Ltd. is the
frst sparkling wine producing and exporting company of India, exporting
to 69 countries across the globe. Teir wines range from the exquisite  like
Chantilli and Ivy to the famboyant Marquise de Pompadour. Tese wines
have won  several  awards  ranging  from  the  International Wine  and  Spirit
Competition (IWSC), held annually at London to Wine Style Asia from Sin-
gapore to national levels at the INDY’s

Indian Wines Available in Thailand

The Chantilly and Ivy label from Chateau Indage Estate Vineyards are im-
ported into Tailand “I decided to import wines from India for two reasons,”
says Ekkachai. “Firstly, no one else was importing these wines and secondly
we have seen a rise in interest in popular Indian culture and food. Te tim-
ing  just seemed right  to me. Te Chantilli  label  is available at branches of
Tesco Lotus with wines priced in the range of 499 baht per bottle. Te Ivy
label wine is priced slightly higher at around 599 baht a bottle and is avail-
able at branches of Villa Supermarket.

We are in the process of having the wines placed on various upscale fne din-
ing restaurants to ofer more choice to their customers.”

Rang Mahal at Rembrandt Hotel was the frst Indian restaurant to pour Indi-
an wines in Bangkok with the Chantilly, Chardonnay and Merlot. “As Indian
wines are a new concept,” says Shubhangi Bhaisare, Restaurant Manager, “we decided to go for the grape varieties our customers are most familiar with.

We chose merlot as  it’s  the most popular  red wine grape with  Indian and Thai wine lovers here in Bangkok. Chardonnay is a universally popular variety and I found this wine goes well with Indian food.”

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Hail The Arrival of Wines from India