A three-hour drive north from Kuala Lumpur and high in the Cameron High­
lands awaits a haven of tranquility and a magnificent landscape. Once a retreat for the Europeans to escape the oppressive heat of the lowlands and now attracting nationalities from across the globe, it still has all the charm and setting reminiscent of an English village.

Cameron Highlands was named after William Cameron, a British surveyor who stumbled across the plateau in 1885 during a mapping expedition. Failing to mark his discovery on the map, the location of the plateau was fi­
nally confirmed by subsequent expeditions. Having been there myself, I can understand why William wanted to keep this wonderful place a secret!
Due to the acidic and rich mineral content of the soil, the region is abundant with tea plantations and strawberry fields. Cameron Highlands is also a leading producer of flowers in Malaysia; be prepared for a brilliant explosion of flowers you won’t see flourishing elsewhere else in Malay­sia! Drive up as high as 1,500 meters above sea level to the peaks of the main range of Peninsular Malaysia and enjoy temperatures as low as 18°C.

Flushed and ready to brew
Nicknamed ‘Malaysia’s Green Bowl’, the Highlands possess all the right attributes of prime cropland – moderate tem­peratures, high altitude, abundant rainfall, long hours of sunshine and well-drained soil.

BOH Tea Plantation is a must-visit place when you are in Cameron Highlands; Scenic, tranquil, cool fresh air, edu­cating and a refreshing brew to quench the thirst. The road journey to the BOH Tea Plantation is an adventure in itself with its narrow and winding road.

Narrow roads aside, the view of green rolling hills with neat rows of tea plantations is simply breathtaking. The Sg Palas ‘ummph!’ BOH TEA Plantation offers free, guided factory tours of how the tea leaf is processed, topped off with a tipple of your favorite brew in the recently ex­panded Tea Rooms. The actual tea factory is still left intact in its old condition – white painted brick walls with red window panes. Inside, while most of the machines have been modernized to cater for the increasing demand, you can subtly feel the old world’s era of tea making. It is as though you were being transported to the day when the scent of freshly picked tea-leaves from their first and second flushes – tea terminology for harvest – were interspersed with the bitter smell of the fermented ones.

Last year Boh opened a tea centre at the plantation with a tea cafe to mesmerize even the most buzzing bee! Exquisitely named tea blends such as Gunung Chantik, Palas Supreme and Bukit Cheeding are featured on the menu, along with Boh alternative range such as Jasmine Green Tea, Chamomile, Peppermint, Lemon Myrtle, Passionfruit Orange, Stawberry Raspberry as well as the Seri Songket flavored teas like Vanilla, Passion Fruit, Clove & Cardamom, Cinnamon, Earl Grey with Tangerine, Lemon with Mandarin, Lychee with Rose, Lime & Ginger and Mango. The choices are plentiful and offer something for everyone.

Narrative posters are arranged along the pathway to tell the history of Boh Tea Company and the natural environment of Cameron Highlands. There is also a video room where visitors can view short documentaries about tea processing and the heritage behind it. Tea Inside-Out

As I discovered on my visit, there is more to the tea bush than meets the eye or simply quenches the thirst. When it was suggested I gave my body a celestial spa seasoning by bathing in the brew, I was surprised and curious to say the least.

My research after visiting the region unveiled studies published in leading medical journals de­claring that tea is a potential heart tonic, cancer blocker, fat buster, virus fighter and cholesterol detoxifier; it also helps to stimulate the immune system and soothes arthritis. Not bad for a lowly shrub.

If all those are what a cuppa can do for you on the inside, then just image what it might do for you if you bathed in it. The antioxidants, hydrating properties, caffeine and fluoride found in tea mean that you need never feel guilty about reaching for the teapot and in The Spa Village at Cameron Highlands Resort, they offer it in tubs for you to soak in.

The Spa Village has fully embraced the natural resources of its immediate environment and taken it a step further to offer guests health benefits from the surroundings, taking visitors beyond their expecta­tions with the spa menu choices.

Signature Spa Treatments
Fresh Strawberry Escapade begins with a Strawberry Tea Bath, a beautiful sensual aqua experience with a difference. While relaxing music via earphones soothes frayed nerves, tea bags resting on the eyes will ease away tension and stress, leaving the body rehydrated and the mind rejuvenated. Following this is the refreshing body buff made of fresh strawberries, yoghurt and crushed oatmeal. The combination con­tains natural alpha-hydroxy acids that help soften and refine skin texture. Finally, the treatment rounds off with a scented massage treat to enhance sensations of pleasure and wellness to deeply heal the mind and body, soothing the soul as it does.

The Semai are the indigenous people of the State of Pahang where Cameron High­lands is located. In their culture, every forest product has a specific use. This cor­pus of knowledge accumulated though generations are not recorded, but within the minds of the elders who have mastered the skill through practice. It appears there is no ailment that cannot be cured using plants and their parts gathered from the jungle. Benefiting from this knowledge, The Spa Village has created Jungle Secrets of Anti-Ageing for Her and the Tok Batin Mystical Tradition for Him. Both provide three hours of bathing, massage, wraps and scrubs treatments incorporating these indigenous practices. These healing therapies are offered in the tranquil environment of one of the six treatment rooms here. Other than the six treatment rooms, there are eight tea bath tubs, two outdoor cabanas and a fully-equipped gymnasium.

The Cameron Highlands Resort also organizes guided day-treks into the jungle that are very informative and ensure you wont be wandering the hills the wrong way leaving you with three days between villages! This is where Jim Thompson mysteri­ously disappeared and was never found despite sending out the SAS troops. Off the tarmac road the paths require good walking shoes and you get a first hand oppor­tunity to learn about the fruits of the jungle and medicinal properties of plants. For the less adventurous who seek a stroll and exercise, the 18-hole golf course is just across the road.

For more information visit
www.cameronhighlandsresort.com, www.boh.com.my

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Just The Tipple!

History has lent a turbulent ride to this proud city. After 73 years seething under French occupation along came the Japanese to grasp a steely grip on the city from 1940 to 1945. Upon their fall Ho Chi Minh declared independence from Hanoi’s Ba Hinh Square. But again the breath of freedom was short lived and for the following eight years Hanoi struggled
with the French, finally casting them aside to be met with the prospect of managing a country split in two along ideological lines.

And in 1964 along came Uncle Sam, fortifying the south in a war that would last over ten years, bringing the city, and the country to its knees. When the Americans finally flew home Hanoi was a crippled victor; like a starving soldier emerging from a war zone with no food on the table. The following twenty years of international sanctions would leave the city in a hollow of depression, reliant upon Russian food and with little outside contact.

The country’s great liberator, Ho Chi Minh died in 1969, long before the end
e war but his memory lives on and even today his legacy can be seen
ughout the city. In the Old Quarter where modern, international restau­
ts and fashion stores attest to the emergence of a cosmopolitan capital his
ge is ubiquitous. In fashion stores you’ll find his portrait splashed across
hirts, in side street cafes he’ll be looking down at you from an old glass
e, in the city’s numerous art galleries his portrait remains a favorite sub-
for today’s artists and on every bank note he’s still there. Communism
y finally buckle and break under the capitalist surge that’s finally breath­ing life into this city but the burning legacy of Ho Chi Minh, Uncle of the People will take a lot longer to fade.

No one is waiting for things to happen in Hanoi. Stop for a moment and street hawkers will swarm around selling everything from banana’s to flesh colored Christ’s that glow in the dark. Hanoi gives cities like Singapore and Bangkok the appearance of sleeping giants. Communism may hold the reigns of power in Vietnam, but it’s capitalism that feeds this city and sets the pace. This may seem like a marriage made in hell, but when I ask the owner of my guest house what he thinks of the idea of democracy in Vietnam, he laughs and replies, half jokingly “You live in Bangkok. Look at the mess democracy has left you with. We’ll have democracy one day, but not yet, people are too busy making money and taking care of their families.”

Hanoi is essentially a city with strong roots in culture and traditions. The people are proud of their music, art and literature. A stroll through the narrow streets of the Old Quarter will reveal a vibrant art scene. Galleries and craft shops are as common as 7-11’s and massage parlors in Bangkok. Some of the streets open up, while others narrow into a warren of alleyways where the occasional scent of freshly baked croissants could fool anyone into believing they’re following a picture book tour through the backstreets of Paris. Turning a corner can be like spinning the globe as you find yourself at the entrance of a Chinese temple dating back to the 15th century, and beside that an internet café packed with school kids playing computer games, forging ahead, for better or worse into the 21st century.

‘The Rapid Leap Forward’ that Hanoi has achieved in economic terms has naturally fil­tered down to the lifestyle of young people in this very traditional city, often creating a fractious relationship with the older population. When the late afternoon sun casts shadows across the tree lined streets of Hanoi, the people brace themselves for another night of moonlit activ­ity. Neon-lit bars serving fashionable drinks and playing an eclectic mix of modern tunes are springing up in growing numbers. Hidden away in the backstreets of the Old Quarter, some are surreptitiously finding ways to defy the orders of the police (known mockingly as ‘the fun police’) who order that all bars close by midnight on weekdays and 1am at the week­end. However, to make the most of a night out in Hanoi, it’s best to encom­pass all aspects of this ancient city whose roots trace back to the Neolithic period, and whose legends speak proudly of victory and survival.

Night Tour

Hanoi is a night city with a strong fusion of European styles reflected in its cuisine, music and architecture. One fine example of French fusion is the Hoa Sua restaurant where a string quartet plays Mozart and Bach in a courtyard dwarfed by a spiraling staircase. Not only will you get great value for money here, you should also feel no guilt while stuffing yourself with frogs legs and Cognac.  Hoa Sua is a successful goodwill project that takes in and trains a steady stream of disadvantaged kids for a culinary career. Like Oliver Twist of old, they’ve been rescued from the streets so enjoy another cognac, listen to the music and steady yourself for the next stage of the night
tour.

Traditionally, Vietnam is known for its strange food. For those seeking a ‘walk on the wild side’ of Vietnamese cuisine, it’s possible to test your gut control with beaten dog meat, duck embryo, field mice, buffalo penis and crickets. For guys who feel the need to prove their masculinity, king cobra could be the ideal tonic. Difficult to find but notorious in their existence are ‘snake restaurants’. For around US$30 per person they’ll kill a venomous snake before your eyes, cut out its still beating heart, feed it to you with a cup of the serpent’s blood and tell you it increases your potency.

I choose to save this particular treat for a future date and instead wave down a taxi to take me to a bar on the edge of the Old Quarter called Highway4.

Highway4 is a dimly lit drinking den swimming in the mystical, medicinal and intoxicating qualities of Vietnamese rice liquor, known to locals as Zio. Zio is the liquor that was drunk by the emperors of Vietnam and many of the bar’s 25 different recipes come served with anecdotes relating to ancient Vietnamese rulers. Enter with caution as your first sight will be a row of huge glass containers filled with various shades of pale amber liquid and crammed with herbs and plants that bring to mind an episode from The Triffids. There’s one glass container voluminous enough to encapsulate a child within which is coiled a snake large enough to consume an adult.

Try not to catch the eyes of the cobra as you walk past and up a narrow, rick­ety staircase to the rooftop terrace where the serious business of drinking begins. Curiosity killed the cat but not before it got drunk so I settle down, cross-legged, at a twelve-inch high bamboo table and follow my fingertip down the drinks list.

Among the several blends there are a couple that catch my eye: Ong Den; made from the rare black bee, recommended for its earthy honey taste and Ran Ngu Xa; blended with venomous snake, powerful and sprightly as it coils a passage around your taste buds.

For those seeking an aphrodisiac, there’s Minh Mang, named after a Viet­namese emperor who ruled from 1820 to 1840. Notorious for his uncount­able concubines, legend has it he fathered around 300 children. Having died before the age of 40, the mind boggles at this guy’s work rate. I soon find the answer in the menu; Nhat Da Ngu Giao, the most potent of rice whiskies. Drink enough of this concoction and the claim is you’ll be producing four children per night. Marvelous – if you’re not suffering from brewers droop.

After a night in Highway4 you may find yourself struggling to walk let alone procreate. But if for you the night is still young, there’s the newly opened Roots drinking den that’ll thrash out quality music into the early hours. This is a favorite of ex-pats and locals alike. The ambience is friendly, open and rough edged. Canvasses painted in a style to please no one but those with an eye for ‘the creative’ hang from the walls, while the music of The Prodigy and Arctic Monkeys assures a clientele who understand music.

By the time I leave Roots the stars are fading and it won’t be long before the sun once again wakes up the city. But for now it’s silent, the only disturbance coming from an elderly man remonstrating with his son for returning home late and drunk.

Sweet dreams, Hanoi.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Postcard From Hanoi

Almost twenty years has passed since Laos opened her arms to the tourist cir­cuit, emerging as the new darling of Southeast Asia, untouched by the frantic pace of life the majority of us city dwellers have become accustomed to. The country’s capital Vientiane is in essence the antithesis of other Southeast Asian capitals such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hanoi and Bangkok.

Tracing the swerve of the Mekong River Vientiane is centrally located with rugged mountains to the north and fertile lowlands to the south. With a population of just over half a million, the city holds sway as the fulcrum of Laos culture, commerce and administration and is considered, by Laos standards as being busy. However, all things are relative and if there were a poll to nominate the world’s quietest capital city I suspect Vientiane would feature somewhere in the top six. Vientiane is a city of gentle charms where the future dangles on tentative hooks like a ball and chain waiting to be released.

The most obvious sign of the city’s French heritage is the central boulevard which bears a striking resem­blance to the Champs Elysees. The lure of Vientiane has much to do with the fact that breakneck develop­ment has yet to sweep aside the soul of this sleepy capital, where temples and religious affiliations blend with the rural foundations of the city. The majority of the city’s sights are situated within a relatively close proximity due to the fact that an urban sprawl has yet to materialize.

Rebuilt by the French after the Siamese army left it in virtual ruins in 1828, the city doesn’t feature French-style architecture as prominently as, say, Saigon or Phnom Penh. But the local penchant for producing stomach-filling baguettes and fragrant coffee clearly shows that the influence of the French still lingers on. Laos continues to triumph in its ability to fascinate and beguile visitors, in part due to its understated ap­proach to luxury, inherent beauty and baw en nyang – no problem attitude. Time and the Chinese will tell whether the charming beer huts and open air restau­rants on the banks of the Mekong will be replaced by the kind of polished resorts and upscale coffee shops that are affordable to about 2% of the population.

For now Vientiane offers a soothing alternative to the chaos of Bangkok and Hanoi – gleaming skyscrapers, droves of rickshaws and legions of street vendors are few and far between in ‘Southeast Asia’s biggest vil­lage’.

What to Do
The French coined the phrase ‘The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow and the Laos listen to it grow’. The national psyche is decidedly laid back, which is of course part of its appeal, rent­ing a push bike can be done from many of the hotels in the city and this will give you easy access to the surrounding sights and sounds of Vientiane. Here are some of the things definitely worth checking out when in town.

Every Saturday local monks lead a walking and sitting meditation session at Wat Sok Pa Luang. Between 4 pm and 5:30 pm the sessions take place in pa­vilions and within the garden. Everyone is welcome, the session is, of course, free of charge and a translator is present for the after-period question time. Twice a year the Buddhist teacher holds intensive Vispassana meditation workshops at the monastery, open to all who wish to join.

Four kilometers away from the bridge that links Thailand to Laos – the Friendship Bridge – is the 18-hole Youth Garden Golf Course. As the first course to be established within the city it can be accessed by non members for about 16 USD on weekdays and a little more on weekends, inclusive of the caddy fee. You can bring your own clubs, or rent a set. A quiet nine-hole course set in well-tended grounds, the Youth Garden Golf Course is consid­ered the hub of expatriate activity in Vientiane. Members’ tournaments fea­ture regularly on the weekends; however, you are guaranteed a quiet round on weekday afternoons.

Time and the Chinese will tell whether the charming beer huts and open air restaurants on the banks of the Mekong will be replaced by the kind of polished resorts and upscale coffee shops that are affordable to about 2% of the population.

For many years the country’s ancient silk-weaving tradition was lost under the Communist regime. With the help of foreign influence and interest from the likes of American weaver Carol Cassidy who started Lao Textiles in 1990, the once elaborate and endangered art form is experiencing a renais­sance. ‘Spinning a yarn’ in Laos is an inherent part of the culture; visitors can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them using a traditional loom. Weaving orientation is both an educational and practical exercise where visitors can learn about the process of weaving and improve their knowledge of various types.

Patuxai (literally Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph), formerly the Anousa­vary or Anousavari Monument, is situated in the centre of Vientiane. Built between 1962 and 1968, the Laotians built it as a mark of respect for all those who fought in the struggle for independence from the French. Ironically, the monument bears more than a slight resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe, al­though the attention to detail and intricate design is typically Laotian, boast­ing four rather than two archways. The view from the top is spectacular. Built with cement that was purchased from America, with the intention of constructing a new airport, the locals sometimes refer to the monument as the ‘vertical runway’. Snap happy tourists can be forgiven for assuming this monument holds pride of place in the hearts of the people, but the truth may be far from that. Painted on the buildings southwest corner is a description that reveals the Laos’s endearing honesty and naivity to ‘First World’ pre-occupations like marketing. One sentence reads, “From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete.”

Where to Stay
The Green Park Boutique Hotel
Vientiane’s first and only boutique hotel has paved the way for the city to build a reputation around quaint hospitality, capturing the true essence of a boutique residence, the personalized service is merely enhanced by the complimentary refreshments and WiFi within rooms. The Green Park is a defining factor in Vien­tiane’s arrival as a visitor destination, the typical Lao­tian interior includes good exposure to light, clean lines and earthy tones; creating a soothing retreat, equipped with an abundance of greenery to be enjoyed from the spacious balconies all of which feature pool and gar­den views. The harmonious balance of the architecture and interior is notably the influence of the hotels owner who comes from a design background.

Le Silapa – French Restaurant
17/1 Sihom Road, Ban Haysok, Vientiane
Tel: 021 – 219 – 689

Green Park Boutique Hotel
248 Khouvieng Road, Ban Nongchanch
PO Box 9698

Situated alongside one of the city’s largest parks, the Green Park sits half an hour walk out side of town. (A shuttle bus runs regularly throughout the day but the walk is unsurpris­ingly pleasant).Each of the 34 (in four categories) guestrooms speak the language of boutique with everything from the in­dividually chosen pieces of art to the characteristically Laos fabrics adding to the overriding comfort and understated el­egance of the space.

Beyond the accommodation the Sala Nong Chan Restaurant is in a separate pavilion, the outdoor terrace overlooks the park and a meandering lake, a subtle compliment to the inter­national dishes on offer. Guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner here or alternatively take the room service option. Like the restaurant the Spa and lobby are in separate buildings. The Champa Laos Spa was under construction at the time of visit­ing but the impressive menu of traditional Laos massage and facial and body treatments will surely not disappoint. Classic rooms in the hotel go for 145 USD a night, inclusive of breakfast and round trip airport transfers.

Where to Eat
There is a distinct European charm when dining out in Vien­tiane, where you can watch the locals and tourists go about their business; an experience sometimes lost in the more hec­tic and polluted cities of Hanoi and Bangkok- basically you are not sharing your meal with a side order of exhaust fumes.
The riverside, open air restaurants overlooking the Mekong River are laden with traditional Laos, French-fusion and Indi­an restaurants all at a very reasonable price. The French food in Vientiane is something everyone should try, in typical Laos style the unassuming shop front of Le Silapa (a converted rail­way house) does not shout ‘best French cuisine in town’ but that is certainly the case. You can’t help but think about the fortune you would be paying in Europe or the US had you been eating the duck foie gras there. Don’t feel obliged to keep wine consumption to a minimum as every bottle of wine or­dered contributes to a medical fund for economically disad­vantaged children.

So drink and be merry, listen to the rice grow and savor the slow and easy charms of Vientiane – before the riff raff come flooding in.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Spirit of Vientiane

Located in northwest Luzon, Ilocos Sur is one of the most historically important regions of the Philippines. As the nation’s only province to have escaped bomb­ing during WWII, the villages and town’s of Ilocos Sur stand like living muse­ums of a spirited past. Cathedral’s and churches, shrines, heritage museums and ancestral homes spanning the past four centuries still stand strong. Straddling a coastal stretch where a myriad of cultures speak proudly of their past through an adherence to traditions, Ilocos Sur offers the perfect destination for those inter­ested in pursuing a pilgrimage tour.

The eight Churches that define the soul of Ilocos Sur were built during the Spanish era, between the 16th and 19th centuries. The historical and spiritual appeal of these churches has been attracting a growing number of travelers and tourists from all walks of life who descend upon Ilocos Sur for a pilgrimage tour.

As a fist time visitor to this region I have no idea of what to expect as Dante, my guide, drives north, past rice plantations to the east and white sand beaches to the west. Traditional trades such as weaving, stonema­sonry and pottery are still widely practiced in communities where it’s not uncommon to spot people using horse and carts as a mode of transport. Juxtaposed to this are a growing number of small but modern shopping centers packed to the rafters with stalls selling electronic gizmos and punctuated with the yellow logo of Western Union outlets; a testament to the large number of families in this region who rely on distant cousins for an extra source of income.

In Ilocos Sur’s northernmost town Sinait, we pull into the compound of Saint Nicholas of Tolentino Parish. The pale pastel exterior stands light against an overcast sky as we enter through cast iron doors into the churches peaceful sanctity. At the far end, some 70 meters away stands a statue of Christ on the cross. According to information garnered from a few scattered documents the statue was discovered in the ocean in the early 17th century.

“The statue was made in Japan but they threw it overboard, it was their loss and our gain,” my guide explains with a wink. Legend has it that the people of a neighboring village found it but couldn’t carry it, so the statue came here. At 18 feet high and carved out of a dark brown hard-wood the statue casts an imposing figure; one can only surmise the 17th century men of Sinait had something in their diet to give them strength.

That little something may well have been garlic. The town is known for its garlic. Stalls in the local market are stacked high and amongst the town’s specialties is garlic ice cream, a strange concept but surprisingly tasty and one sure to keep the Devil at bay from children’s dreams.

Driving on, we pass bamboo villages and rice crops peppered with field workers. At the edge of one field stands a chapel the size of a shed built out of breeze blocks and boasting an ornately carved wooden cross. Further on, as we approach San Guillermo Church, a warm breeze fills the air with the sweet scent of a nearby tobacco plantation.

One of the oldest churches in the region, San Guillermo was constructed by Augustian friars in 1576. Daylight cascades through ceiling high windows to illuminate baroque decorations and a pulpit gilded with gold leaf. Standing behind the pulpit and almost defying gravity stands a 25 me­ter high altar, intricately carved out of wood. “Not one nail has been used in building this pulpit,” Dante explains with an air of pride over his fellow country men’s artistry.

As we leave the church through a back door exit I look up to see the Lord Christ hanging from a cross, his compassionate eyes catching mine through a veil of blood stained tears. Heading south we exit the town under an arch bearing the words, “God Bless.”

Driving towards Ildefonso we stop at a stall selling Basi Revolt wine, a sugar cane wine made famous during the Basi revolt. The sales lady laughs and cautions me to drink a little at a time. I joke about how I’m going to drink the whole bottle after nightfall and imagine myself as a freedom fighter during the Spanish era.

In the small town of San Vincente, we enter a church of the same name. Established canonically in 1795, the church has long been a calling ground for pilgrims seeking miraculous cures. As I enter through the side door my mood immediately lightens. The sweet and gentle sound of bird-song echoes through the building, leaving me with the sensation of a weight being lifted from my shoulders. Glancing towards the altar my eyes fall upon a sculpture of Saint Vincente, looking toward me with innocent eyes and wings on his back.

Noticing my look of surprise Dante explains, “Saint Vincente is the only Patron Saint to have wings, just like a bird.”

Vigan, Ilocos Sur’s capital, is the only preserved Spanish town in the Philippines and since 1999 has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To wander its streets is to step into history. Horse and carts still clatter along the narrow cobbled streets past crumbling ancestral homes set aglow with iron lamps, handicraft shops and street life that seems to pulsate to the rhythms of a time gone by.

Entering into the heart of Vigan we stop for lunch in an 18th century restaurant at the end of Heritage Road. Lap­ping up Spanish influenced cuisine that is unique to this region I glance over my shoulder to spot a taxi driver goading me forward. Looking over his shoulder I notice his taxi is in fact a horse and cart. An hour or two trotting through the historical streets of Vigan seems as civilized a way as any to digest my lunch before paying a visit to the cities Saint Paul’s Cathedral.

Saint Paul’s Cathedral was first built as a wooden struc­ture in 1575 by Juan de Salcedo. Reduced to splinters dur­ing the earthquakes of 1619 and 1627 a second Cathedral was constructed in 1641 before the present baroque style church was erected in the 1800’s. As I enter, the late after­noon sun casts shadows across the creamy white exterior. The rising tones of a choir boy climb skyward to echo off the arch like shapes that define the ceiling. Freshly ar­ranged flowers and newly lit candles flicker wildly as a group of pilgrims imbued with reverence and eager to pray scurry towards the aisles. When a group of school children enter through the large oak side-doors the sound of creaking seems to resonate with the choir boy’s falsetto to the point that I wonder his voice may be prematurely breaking. Once the creaking doors are closed order is restored and the whole building comes to life with a moving rendition of Bach’s Jesus, Joy of Man’s Desiring.

It must be for a good two hours that I sit listening to the music and studying a series of paintings portraying the Lord Christ’s terrible assent to crucifix­ion. As I exit the sinking sun bleeds a rusty hue across the rooftops of Vigan, creating an eerie ambience where shadows seem to move like ghosts across the cobbled streets.

The following morning I awake to the sound of rain bouncing off the streets and a gale force wind threatening to rip the arms off the trees. By the time I’ve finished breakfast order is restored and the sun is breaking through. As if on cue Dante appears at the door, his SUV keys jangling in his hand.

Driving towards our next port of call, Santa Maria, we stop to buy some sticky rice and mango fruit from some kids perched at the edge of a rocky outcrop. Fishermen stand at the ocean edge, waiting patiently for something to bite while fifty meters out to sea an altar of the Virgin Mary perched on a rock stands strong against the choppy waters.

The sticky rice proves to be the fuel needed to power us up the 82 step stair­way to the Nuestra Senora de la Asuncian church in Santa Maria. Built in 1765 the church was used as a fortress during the Philippine revolution in 1896. Today Ilocos Sur is at peace; a group of school kids fly their kites above the belfry which leans precariously against a strong wind that attempts to steal the kites from their small hands. A fine example of a baroque architec­ture this church was named a UNESCO world heritage site on December 11th, 1993.

Driving on through the province we stop by at a white sand bay where young and old are involved in a basketball tournament. A loan surfer rides high upon the waves while a group of kids bury their unfortu­nate friend under a mole hill of sand. One of the kids asks me if I want to be buried, declining the offer I take a snap shop and move on to the next stop.

Built around 400 hundred years ago, Santa Lucia church in Santa Lucia is most noticeable for its high dome rooftop. Known for its Renaissance style architecture the interior of this church has been beauti­fully maintained. To the west wing of the altar a couple of teenage boys armed with electric guitars are practicing their hits for this Sunday’s mass. Their songs, celebrating the Lord are attracting, a new wave of young worshippers. They call themselves The Miracle Band. Their songs speak of optimism and hope; encapsulating the message of the Lord, keeping alive old traditions through a new medium; sounding forth a welcome from the churches of Ilocos Sur to a whole new generation of pilgrims.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Ilocos Sur: A Pilgrimage

It all began innocently enough. Around twenty years ago someone had the bewitching idea of luring in the innocent; mixing cocktails and serving brew in a purpose built Victorian building thereby creating the ambience of an old English tavern. The Witch’s Tavern was the first English pub in Bangkok and is today the most unique; an oasis from the bustle of Bangkok where bands concoct a nightly dose of popular tunes from the 1960’s onwards.

Most great ideas spawn an offspring and it was ten years later that the group opened The Witch’s Oyster Bar in Soi Ramrudee. Having been told by a couple of friends that this stylish bar and restaurant was the best kept secret in Bangkok my curiosity is piqued as I creep through the Soi toward the smoky lights penetrating the mist before me.

Any sense of trepidation is swept aside as I enter the homely abode. Before me is a selection of fine ales from across the oceans and above me hang one of the most comprehensive selections of malt whiskies in Thailand. Surely a sight for sore eyes for any wandering farang; but what sets this evening on the right track is the fact that it’s happy hour and the night has only just begun.

The bar’s restaurant area overlooks the ground floor and spills out onto a balcony overlooking the street. Afraid of the shadowy mists that have enveloped the night my partner chooses to take a ta­ble inside. Climbing the rickety staircase we seat ourselves at a table that looks down on the bar area where people are flinging back the ale and mak­ing hay while times are good.

Filling my vessel with blood red wine the waitress asks me what my fancy may be. Tracing my finger down a menu that reads like a feast fit for a medi­eval King I predictably select a platter of oysters followed by a hearty serving of Roasted Foie Gras with Crushed Almonds and Port. My partner seeks comfort in the more homely fare of crispy roasted pigeon with creamy mash potato. Accompanying this is the Oyster Bar’s very own and very unique creation of chutney. When I ask the waitress what might be in that mix she turns pale and beseeches me to drink more.

More than happy to comply I sink into my chair, soak up the fare and gaze across at the far wall stacked high with various sized jars of syrup liquor. A million shades of amber nectar blend and coagulate into an attractive spec­tacle of potions that shimmer and swim with the movement of people. The wine is working wonders as my partner and I move onto our final course; Witches Dim Sum Basket.

The morsels, no doubt created in a cauldron where east meets west prove to be the per­fect end to the meal.
However, the night is far from over and with the sandpaper tones of Dylan ris­ing up from the floor below I knew it’d be a long time before I stepped back into the mist.

The Oyster Bar is located 20/10­-11 Soi Ruam Rudee, Ploenchit, Bangkok 10330  Tel: 02-251-9455 0.3 km’s from BTS Ploenchit Station

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

The Witch’s Oyster Bar

Officially opened in November 1989, the 549-room Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is Hyatt International’s flagship property. Combining a futuristic exterior of polished marble and silvered glass, with a 1930’s interior pertaining to high society and art deco design, The Grand Hyatt can be considered a bridge link­ing Hong Kong’s romantic past with an exciting future.

Even from a distance the building casts a strong impression on Hong Kong Is­land’s world famous harbor front. By contrast, The Lobby mimics the inte­rior of a luxury ocean going liner from a by gone era when the sun never set on the British Empire. As I approach the doorman motions me into a grand space furnished with pe­riod items, marbled columns and graceful statuettes. Glancing through the ceiling high windows to my left I wonder if I’ve set sail as the sun bounces off the blue waters of Victoria Harbor.

Victoria Harbor is one of the most famous in the world. The skyline of modern towers reflected off a distant sea is as instantly recognizable as Big Ben on the Thames to any English native who looks beyond David and Victoria Beckham’s wardrobe for their cultural identity. At dusk the towers pierce the fading sun like silver blades while echoes of a distant, and sometimes bloody past, enter the frame.

On a wet and rainy day ten years ago the sun well and truly set on the British Empire as we returned control of Hong Kong to the Chinese. Much to the amusement of the locals, the Queen slipped and fell on that fateful day as if to mark the end of an era that began with the first Opium War in 1841. Furious at the volume of opium being pushed onto their people and keen to stem the flow, the Chinese confiscated and set fire to a huge shipment of ‘foreign mud,’ giv­ing the British the pretext they needed for military action. Two British gun boats promptly destroyed a Chinese fleet of 29 ships and the Union Jack was hoisted.

All is forgiven today, after all Hong Kong, with a population of 7 million went on to become one the world’s great financial center’s and is today one of the Asia’s most vibrant and eclectic cities.

There are over 70,000 restaurants in Hong Kong but, according to the in house blurb, only one like The Grand Hyatt’s Chinese restaurant, ‘One Harbor Road’ named after the hotels address. Feeling adventurous I order a bowl of birds nest soup as a starter.

“That’s made of birds saliva, very good for your health and a delicacy for the Chinese” the waiter explains before I flutter onto the next course. The smoky Chilean red that accompanies our meal proves to be some of the best I’ve ever tried. Suitably laced my partner and I prepare ourselves for a night of exploration on the streets of Hong Kong.

Breakfast is to be had on the 31st floor, otherwise known as the Grand Club, a luxurious lounge where one can sip Champaign and pop caviar eggs while gazing across the harbor.

If Hong Kong were a person she’d be difficult to understand. She’d be constantly changing without losing touch of her herit­age. She’d be superstitious but scientific when she wanted to be. She’d love dim sum and pizza too. She’d be exotic but familiar, a gambler but she’d always know the odds. She’d be all this, a contradiction and a conundrum, but more than anything she’d be a lot of fun to be around.

The doorman, who speaks excellent English and introduces himself as Robert sees that we’re pretty much lost the moment we step out of the hotel. We tell him we’re looking for a good spot to watch the night life from the curb of a bar. After chat­ting to us about our tastes he waves down a taxi and sends us on our way to Lan Kwai Fong in Central. Comprising of bars and restaurants on a steep street reminiscent of San Francisco we take our place to observe the night creatures, who file past us in a phantasmagorical blur of liquor induced wonder.

In the morning the sun beams thorough the ceiling high windows. Flicking on the hi definition wide screen TV at the foot of my bed a BBC reporter informs me that China is experiencing the greatest economic boom in its history and has just overtaken Germany as the world’s third largest economy – so watch out America.
Breakfast is to be had on the 31st floor, otherwise known as the Grand Club, a luxuri­ous lounge where one can sip Champaign and pop caviar eggs while gazing across the harbor. Only a one eyed planarian could fail to be impressed with such surrounds but what makes our entire stay in The Grand Hyatt so special are the staff.

From 5pm till 7pm the canopies and Champagne in the Grand Club are complemen­tary, so naturally we begin our evenings there. Dan is the man who serves us champagne and chats amicably about life in Hong Kong. Having served as a drinks waiter in the Grand Club for several years he seems to have an uncanny sense of when to top up my champagne glass.

“More bubbles sir,” he smiles as I sip away.

The Grand Hyatt offers countless arguments for unabashed gluttony, but for those who fear the 7th deadly sin there are ample opportunities to keep mind and body in shape. Guests can work out in the hotels hi tech gym before seeking Spa treatment or diving into a 50 meter outdoor swimming pool perched on the 11th floor. Adjoining the gym an open air restaurant will keep the active fueled with rafts of fruit juice, creamy yo­ghurts and freshly baked croissants.

You’ve probably read enough superlatives for one day so let’s end with a word about what really separates The Grand Hyatt, and indeed Hong Kong as a whole from its competitors – the staff and the people.

On my last day I hop into a taxi, visit Victoria Peak, put my hand in my pocket to grab my camera to snap the vista and realize I’ve left the camera on the back seat of the taxi. De­jected and resigned to the realization that I’ll never see that camera again, or the 100 plus snaps I’d taken in China, I return to the ho­tel to tell the door staff what had happened. Immediately they ask me what time I took the taxi, re-wind the CCTV system, freeze the moment I step into the taxi, record the number plate and phone the taxi company who radio the driver who returns immedi­ately with my camera. There are few hotels in this world where luxury and efficiency com­bine in such a way to paste over the faults of its clientele, but The Grand Hyatt is one of them.

Published by Traversing The Orient Magazine. You want to make an online travel business? Please go to www.web.com.

Sundown Hong Kong