As night falls, lanterns set aglow the white washed exterior of Lyon, creating a homely glow for dinners in search of tradi­tional French cuisine. The cobbled paving and lattice awn­ings surrounding this two story house adds to the impres­sion of French authenticity, but what transcends the diner is the food itself.

Upon entering, one is magnetically drawn (or at least I was) towards a walk in wine cellar to the right and a stylish bar to the left. One can enjoy an aperitif, a Martini perhaps, or a tipple of their 1982 Chateaux Margaux, at 95,000 baht an ideal choice for those who have just won the lottery; but don’t be put off, a good French or South American red starts at a reasonable 1,100 baht.

Since opening, around 12 years ago Lyon has won numerous awards for its French cuisine and has maintained a regular clientele, both Thai and none Thai who have been seduced by their cuisine par excellence. A recent renovation has revitalized the atmosphere and attracted a new clientele. The décor is conservative and unimposing. A polished mahogany brown floor blends nicely with the coffee brown tones while knowledgeable waiters dressed in bow ties and dinner suits remind the cli­ent they’re on a  special night out.

For starters, I enjoy smoked duck breast with salad while my partner tucks into the pork head pate. C’est magnifique, she attests. Having once spent a gap year as a waitress in Paris’ esteemed Le Grand Vefour, her judgment bodes well for what is to come.

Before choosing our main course the waiter fills our glasses with a fine house red and explains how and why the restaurant has aspired to create and main­tain such high standards. “The staff, they have been cooking French cuisine for the past 40 years.”

All the Thai chef ’s at Lyon began an apprenticeship at the first French res­taurant to open in Bangkok, some 40 years ago. The restaurant, located on Silom Road, was called Chez Suzanne and the proprietor was a lady called Madam Suzanne, a French diplomat who trained the teenage staff in the finer arts of French cuisine. Ever since then the chefs have focused their skills on French cuisine, working at hotels and restaurants in various parts of Thailand before settling at Lyon 12 years ago.

When the music changes from piped muzac to Edith Piaf songs my mood lifts and I opt for something quintessentially French; frogs legs sautéed with garlic and dry sherry. I have to admit, the last time I sampled frogs legs I left the restaurant dissatisfied and searching for a kebab. But everything deserves a second chance and this time round I wasn’t disappointed; the legs were rounded, tender and oozing with flavor.

Meanwhile, my partner was working her way through a creature from the deep, a grilled rock lobster skewered and glowing red. When I made an attempt at conversation she was lost in a sea of Parisian dreams.
For dessert she comes afloat with a crepe suzette, gently heated pancake with syrup. When I order an Irish coffee the waiter wheels in a trolley laden with all the ingredients and accessories needed to create the perfect tipple. A spit­toon held high, from which he leaks the whisky into the glass, setting fire to it and looping the flame with an accomplished flick of the wrist. It’s an impressive display; so impressive that I decide to order another one.

When the meal is over the waiter brings us each a complementary glass of calvados, clearing the vapors and lulling our senses before we step out into the stormy night, swaggering to the defiant tones of Edith Piaf ’s J’ne Regrette Rien.

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Chef’s Table: Lyon J’ne Regrette Rien