Denis Horagan was an accountant by profession and acquired a former cattle farm by way of set­tling a debt. Luckily, that proved to be some of the finest vine growing soil in the now famous Mar­garet River district. His second piece of luck was in 1972 he met with the legendary, late Robert Mondavi who acting as a consultant helped by advising on what varietals to plant. Working with his wife Trica the couple evolved Leeuwin Estate with guidance from their famous American mentor. Our wine guru Laurence Civil recently met with Simone Furlong, Denis & Trica’s daughter, on her recent visit to Bangkok to learn their story.

The site is in an isolated location with a pristine natural environment, they took the approach of minimal intervention, focusing on quality rather than quantity intentionally keeping the yields low.

To protect the wines from damage by strong winds in the budding season they planted trees and cereal rye to act as a further windbreak.

Realizing that hungry birds like to eat grapes large plots of sunflowers were sown at strategic intervals to provide parrots with a food they
would prefer while silvereyes could dine on the trees. Working with the environment and through skilled vineyard management, Leeuwin has been able to pro­duce fine fruit in a practical, environmentally friendly manner.

Leeuwin Estate is one of the most modern wineries in the Southern hemisphere, offering its winemakers all the advantages of new age technology. Winemaking is an art as well as a sci­ence, and it is here where the skills of the winemaker are carefully combined with technology to produce the best possible wines. In general, they follow European winemaking techniques, concentrating on achieving complexity, balance and longevity in their wines through a blend of modern and traditional methods.

This is achieved through temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, two Bucher Pneumatic presses, and the use of French oak barrels to give the right style and character to their wines.

Their wines are released under three la­bels, the “Art Series”, “Prelude Vineyards” and “Siblings”. Each has its own lifestyle but collectively they have made a sig­nificant contribution to the reputation of Australian wine.

The “Art Series” is their most prestig­ious, wines of quality with the pedigree for aging. Each vintage is identified by a painting on its label commissioned from leading contemporary Australian artists. Australia doesn’t have a Grand Cru clas­sification for its wine, but if it did this is what it would be.

The first painting commissioned was of Caves Road by Robert Juniper for the 1980 Art Series Chardonnay. John Olsen was approached to paint the first artwork to be used on the Art Series Riesling. His response to the idea was to paint four works entitled “Frogs in Riesling”. They only needed one for that years vintage but found these paintings were so irresistible that the decision was made to purchase all four and continue these labels on all fu­ture Riesling vintages.

Not everyone bought into the idea im­mediately. When Sir Sidney Nolan was approached at the beginning of the series, he advised them that he was not a graphic artist and did not paint for wine labels. Knowing that he was also a red wine buff, they sent him two unlabelled bottles of the 1982 Ca­bernet Sauvignon – one of Leeuwin’s best vintages to see if the taste of the wines could change his mind. They did and he responded that in return for the two bottles of wine he would happily provide a painting and  his Dolphin Rock appearing on the label.

Today with so many high caliber artists having already had their work appear on the labels, it is no longer a challenge convincing leading artists to be part of this collection. The Leeuwin Estate Art Gallery already house some 100 pieces and as the collection builds, it is hoped to tour it in its own right.

While the “Art Series” has an intellectually superior quality for the discerning connoisseur most people are looking for a wine to drink soon after they have bought it. So “Prelude Vineyards” wines are made from fruit producing the most readily expressive wines that are ready to drink soon after release. A Chardonnay and a Cabernet Merlot are released under this label.

Hand fruit selection is key to their winemaking as the winemakers have found that certain blocks, and even certain rows in particular blocks, tend to consistently produce fruit best suited to either of the two styles of Cabernet and Chardonnay they make.

The “Siblings” label represents wines intended for fresh early drinking.

And now for music

The Leeuwin Concerts started in 1985 when the company gave financial support for The London Philharmonic Orchestra’s tour of Australia. As a way of saying thank you the Orchestra came and performed in this unique vineyard setting. In the intervening 24 years they have been followed by the likes of Ray Charles, Diana Ross, George Benson, Sting and Simply Red.

From an orchestra from London who came to ‘play for their supper’ it has grown to be a highlight in Australia’s social and cultural calendar. Guest come dressed in anything from top hats to t-shirts, they come to picnic on the sprawling winery lawns, whilst enjoying the music of the industry’s greatest performers.

Gradually, the crowd begins to hush in anticipation of the night’s show, as the sun sets over a majestic backdrop of misty karri forest. Suddenly, as the music fills the natural amphitheatre, Leeuwin’s famous kookaburras burst into a raucous cackling chorus – much to the amusement of guests and the delight of startled entertainers.

Some 1800 Corporate Guests, invited by many of the country’s leading busi­nesses, enjoy a sit-down black tie dinner by gourmet caterers while being en­tertained by musicians and dancers. Meanwhile, other guests enjoy the live post concert entertainment as they continue to picnic in the main arena. A Festival of fine wine, food, and music; truly all nights to remember, isn’t that what wine was really meant for, to be enjoyed however you want to do it.