Wine scribe Laurence Civil explores the question ‘Are we drinking wines younger as a lifestyle or economic choice?’

In a recent conversation with Steve Reader – Win­emaker for SIMI in California – I learnt that in the US 90% of wine is drunk within two days of purchase. It strikes me as an alarming statistic that goes to prove that the overwhelming trend is to purchase wine on an as needed basis – much in the way we purchase a hamburger and coke.

Wine is a consumer item bought as part of the weekly groceries. Our choices are determined by the food we plan to prepare in the coming week and see­ing as most of us store wine in the refridgerator space is generaly limited.

The idea of laying down wines for future generations is a grandiose concept
requiring serious cash investment on which we aren’t looking for a quick return. Few and far between are those lucky enough to have a rich grandfa­ther or an eccentric uncle who laid down a few cases dated the year we were born.

If the vintage of our birth was outstanding there would be an indulgent pleasure in sharing that wine with friends. However, if the vintage were dis­appointing would that be a bad reflection on us? Would we be prepared to do the same for our grandchildren and would they thank us when the time came to drink their wines.

Cellaring or simply storing wines correctly, whether it’s for two days or two decades is essential to preserve wines in their best condition. Most quality wines with high tannins improve with age and develop greater complexity. But how many of us have the suitable accommodation to store cases of wine for 20 years – and for that matter how many of us can be bothered. For most of us the favored option is to allow someone else to take on that responsibility.

Tannins are the key factor winemakers consider when making a wine for aging as they are the element that lends structure. The grapes with the best tannins are primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo and Shiraz. If red wines are to be drunk younger they will require less tannins. This in turn leads to a change in the way wines are made and a shift in the grapes used. Is a young cabernet as attractive as young merlot or pinot noir? Would a light style of Bordeaux be as attractive as the heavy clarets to which we are more accustomed?

If the drink young trend becomes established it strengthens the argument for screw caps as corks only come into their own with wines that are stored for five years or longer. Also, today wine isn’t just drunk at the table but at picnics, concerts and sports events.

At some festivals glasses are banned. This has led to wine being packaged in cans and paper cartons, causing purists to faint at the thought of such sac­rilege – but why? Guy Anderson Wines launched its CanCan canned wine brand at the recent London Wine Fair. Included in the canned wines are sau­vignon blanc, a rosé pinot grigio and a sparkling prosecco targeting female wine drinkers who might want to pack their wine along with their asparins when heading out for events such as music festivals.

We drink beer and soft drinks from bottles and cans. Surely, if canned wine doesn’t compromise the taste and allows people to carry their favorite tip­ple to music events and the such then where’s the harm? The younger wine drinker is looking for wine options which are practical and which can de­liver – snobbism be dammed.

This trend won’t wipe out great quality, aging wines. It will merely broaden accesibility, streamlining those who truly appreciate the type of fine wine whose quality and value increase with time.